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Overview

Introduction

Djibouti, with its arid expanses of rocks, ravines, sunken plains and salty lakes, hardly seems a prize worth fighting over. But because of its strategic location at a choke point to the Red Sea and the Suez Canal, many have tried to control Djibouti (pronounced jee-BOO-tee)—including Ethiopians, Ottomans, Egyptians and the French. In the early 1990s, the two ethnic groups who inhabit the country, the Afars, related to Ethiopians, and the Somalis, of the Issa clan, fought a civil war. Peace and relative stability has now prevailed, but tourists remain a rarity. Those who do go enjoy nearly-empty beaches, superb diving and otherworldly desert scenery, but pay high prices by African standards.

Geography

Wedged between Ethiopia, Eritrea and Somalia, Djibouti is only 15 mi/25 km across the Bab al-Mandab straits from Yemen. Most of the country consists of desert and plains with many mountains (some reach heights of more than 6,700 ft/2,078 m).

History

The French, recognizing its strategic importance as a port, colonized the country in the 1860s and sent in the French Foreign Legion to back up their claim. Known for many years as French Somaliland and later as the Territory of Afars and Issas, the country obtained its independence in 1977 (one of the last countries in Africa to do so). Independence was not peaceful, and the Foreign Legion remained behind to keep the territory out of the hands of two competing rebel groups and several covetous neighbors.

Djibouti's people are historically nomadic herders of camels, goats and sheep, though today most live in the capital city where the most desired jobs are in the port and government administration. About a quarter of the population is still nomadic or seminomadic. Thousands of French nationals still reside in Djibouti, and the French influence is strong in the nation's culture, economy and government. With few natural resources, the nation's economy is dependent on foreign aid, the port and several thousand foreign soldiers and defense contractors based at the U.S. Navy-led Camp Lemonnier.

Snapshot

The foremost attractions of Djibouti are beaches, diving and snorkeling, duty-free shopping, desert scenery, nomadic culture, petrified forests, the French Foreign Legion and historical sites.

Travelers who are not there for the underwater attractions may be disappointed. The country will only appeal to those who love dry, desolate scenery and who need few conveniences or who have a specific reason for going there. Don't go if you simply want an African experience—there are many more interesting places for that.

Potpourri

The original railroad between Djibouti City and Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, had two lines, one for passengers called the White Train and one for freight called the Black Arrow. When the first track was completed in 1917, the White Train took two and a half days to make the journey, and the Black Arrow took five days.

Although the population is 865,000, less than half of these are truly Djiboutian: Most of the rest come from its less stable neighboring countries, often illegally or as refugees.

The country of Djibouti expands several inches/centimeters every decade. This is caused by the broadening of the geologic split in the planet's crust in the Great Rift Valley.

The Djibouti weekend runs Friday and Saturday.

Most of the souvenirs sold in the country have no real connection to Djibouti. They are imported from elsewhere in Africa, particularly Ethiopia and Kenya.

Women are accorded a higher position in Djibouti than in most Islamic countries, although women's rights are not a top priority.

Qat, a mildly narcotic plant, is chewed by most of the male population of the country. The entire supply is imported from Ethiopia and distributed to even the most remote corners of the country.

Over the next few million years, a new sea may come to divide the Horn of Africa south of Djibouti from the main body of the continent. A small salt stream from the Gulf of Aden to Lake Assal has already begun the process.

The port of Djibouti is the largest refueling station on the Red Sea and often visited by U.S. naval ships.

Although the country is extremely dry most of the time, it has flash floods every few years.

Overview

Introduction

In one of the greener areas of the country, this capital city has a mix of African, Arab and French cultures. Visit the markets and the port, then take a cruise to visit the islands of Maskali and Moucha. There are good beaches at Dorale and Khor Ambado, both about 5 mi/8 km from town. Also just outside the city is the Ambouli palm grove, a pleasant place to stroll during the cooler parts of the day, and Refuge Decan, a sanctuary for rescued cheetahs (http://decandjibouti.org).

For an impressive view, drive some 25 mi/40 km west of town to Arta, a mountain retreat with a cool climate. Similar vistas grace the route to salty Lake Assal. Day trips can be taken to nearly any spot in the country, though some excursions could involve long days.


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