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Overview

Introduction

This area, characterized by impressive mountain peaks, has several villages. The inhabitants are primarily hunters of seals and bears, and their lifestyle and language are distinct from the fishing communities of western Greenland.

Tasiilaq (Ammassalik)—This village is on an island off the east coast of Greenland and just south of the Arctic Circle (close to the airport at Kulusuk). It was unknown to the outside world before 1884. Plan on three or four days visiting the Inuit people of Tasiilaq and viewing spectacular Sermilik Fjord, glaciers and icebergs (which are often seen by air). Rare arctic flora can be viewed on hikes in the nearby Valley of Flowers. The mountains of the area are suitable for skiing in the winter (there's a ski lift in Tasiilaq). One of our favorite activities is to tour the icebergs by boat: Gliding among the icebergs is spooky—but not to be missed. Other boat trips—good for viewing birds and seals—can take you to the village of Kuummiut.

Because the Tasiilaq/Kulusuk area lies much closer to Iceland than the other parts of Greenland, it remains popular as an Icelandair tour destination. Day-trippers descend on Kulusuk (Cape Dan), a typical outpost tucked between towering mountains and an iceberg-filled bay. It's a good place to buy local beadwork and sculpture. Kulusuk was the site of one of the original Distant Early Warning radar posts, set up by the U.S. during the Cold War to watch for incoming Soviet missiles. The post has since been dismantled. Tasiilaq is 450 mi/725 km northeast of Nuuk.

Overview

Introduction

Greenland is hard to get to and difficult to move about, so a trip to this North American island requires a good deal of money and effort. But if you're up for an adventure in a place that's unlike most others, the effort will be well worth it.

In Greenland, you'll see steep, stony mountains crowned with glaciers and enormous icebergs tumbling from the glaciers into a sea that churns between the jagged walls of fjords. Inuit villages can be seen lining the fjord's sides. Don't forget your camera.

Greenland is covered in ice—in fact, Greenlanders will tell you there are three different kinds—but if you can get past the initial idea that ice equals cold, you'll find the frozen water, and Greenland itself, fascinating.

Geography

Greenland (or Kalaallit Nunaat, its Inuit name, which translates as "Land of the People"), is located east of northern Canada. Although politically a part of Europe, it's geographically closer to North America. More than half of it is north of the Arctic Circle, and 84% is covered year-round with a layer of ice (up to 11,190 ft/3,410 m thick). Icebergs are common off the coast. The natural environment is spectacular—rugged mountains, fjords and islands. Vegetation is sparse, with low, dense shrubbery and short-lived flowers. The population of land and sea animals and birds is large and diverse.

Note: Most Greenland towns have both Greenlandic and Danish names. The Danish names are often listed in parentheses.

North and Northeast Greenland are closed preserves. The remainder of the island is generally divided into four areas: Disko Bay, Mid Greenland, South Greenland and East Greenland.

History

The first people to find their way to Greenland arrived about 5,000 years ago from what's now northern Canada. Over time, several different cultural groups migrated to the island. The Thule (pronounced TOO-lay), the ancestors of the Inuit that now live in Greenland, arrived in the early 900s. They were soon joined by Scandinavians when Eric the Red established a Viking colony on the island in the 980s. The European settlements flourished for a time, but by the 1400s, the Scandinavian presence had withered. It wasn't until the 1700s that Danes and Norwegians again established outposts.

In 1814, Denmark got political control of Greenland, and it continues to play a large role in island affairs. A home-rule government was instituted in 1979, which provides for a great deal of local autonomy in day-to-day matters. Denmark remains responsible for issues such as defense and foreign affairs.

About 90% of Greenland's residents live in small villages and towns on the west coast of the island, on the fringe of the massive ice cap. The great majority are Inuit or of mixed Inuit and Scandinavian heritage. The strain of fitting a traditional hunting-and-fishing culture into the modern world has created some social problems—especially with the added demands of the extreme climate. The island has a relatively high rate of domestic violence and one of the highest suicide rates in the world.

Most of Greenland's economy is based on fishing. Hunting seals and whales is an important part of local livelihoods (the International Whaling Commission allows a certain level of subsistence whaling). Denmark, of which Greenland is a part, subsidizes food and consumer goods, and makes up the deficit in the island's annual budget. Over the past 15 years, tourism has become an important factor in the economy.

Snapshot

Greenland's main attractions are unspoiled and unpolluted nature, mountain walks, mountain climbing, dogsledding, cross-country skiing, fishing, hunting, Inuit culture, animals (polar bears, seals, whales, reindeer, musk oxen and birds), midnight sun, northern lights, Viking ruins, icebergs, fjords, glaciers and arctic flora.

Those looking for an adventurous and unusual experience in a little-visited part of the world should consider Greenland. Visitors who are uncomfortable with cool to bitterly cold weather will be very uncomfortable there. Those on a limited budget won't be able to afford the trip.

Potpourri

Golf in Greenland? Yes, but it's played on ice, not grass. Each year in March or April, the World Ice Golf Championships are staged at Uummannaq. Icebergs make for challenging obstacles as golfers try to reach a "green" painted on the ice (though it's actually red). White golf balls, of course, are not used.

If you want to write to Santa Claus, you can reach him at Father Christmas Post Office, P.O. Box 2412, DK-3900 Nuuk, Greenland.

One theory has it that Greenland's name came from the Vikings: Eric the Red used it as a clever bit of public relations when he was attempting to lure colonists from Iceland.

In some schools, children are instructed in traditional hunting skills, skin preparation and beadwork. It's part of an effort to keep the ancestral Greenland culture alive.

In the Disko Bay, the sun doesn't set 25 May-25 July.

In the mid-1990s, a team of adventurers, led by former U.S. Navy pilot Darryl Greenamyer, decided to recover a B-29 aircraft that had been buried in ice in Greenland since 1947. After spending two years and US$500,000 to salvage and restore it, they tried to fly it out—only to have it catch on fire before it could lift off the ground.

Although it's part of Denmark, which is a member of the European Union, Greenland was able to withdraw from the EU. This move protected its valuable fisheries from European exploitation.

Native Greenlanders prefer to be called Inuits, rather than Eskimos. The native language is Inuit, called Greenlandic there. Visitors might feel some resentment from Inuits because of the Western influence on their society, but this isn't directed at foreign travelers in particular.

Greenland resembles a giant bowl filled with ice. At the center, the weight of the ice (up to 11,188 ft/3,410 m thick) sinks the land 1,200 ft/365 m below sea level.

Kayaks (from the native word qajaq) are a Greenlandic invention and were developed for hunting and fishing. They are still used for those purposes in the northern parts of the country.

The largest land animals in the arctic region, polar bears, live in Greenland. They rarely show up around the towns, though.

In answer to almost any question, you may get the response imaqa (maybe), because most activities depend on the weather.

Sheep, the only imported animals able to survive in Greenland, are raised in the southern regions.

Overview

Introduction

On the west coast (partly below the Arctic Circle), this region is best recognized for its highly varied scenery.

Kangerlussuaq (Sondre Stromfjord)—Founded as a World War II airfield, the U.S. sold Kangerlussuaq to Greenland for one krone (US$0.15) in 1992. Greenland continues to run it as a scaled-back air base, and it's one of the island's busiest passenger air terminals. Several military barracks are now hotels, and it has a golf course, a gymnasium and a swimming pool. Set 110 mi/180 km inland, the area has more clear days than the coastal areas and the temperatures are some of the most extreme in the country: terribly cold in winter and as high as the low 80s F/28 C during summer, which is midnight-sun season. Weather permitting, you can cross-country ski in the colder months and take interesting walks in the summer. In winter, it's a perfect place to watch northern lights, as the weather tends to be clear. 200 mi/320 km north of Nuuk.

Nuuk (Godthab)—Greenland's capital and a major fishing town, Nuuk (pronounced nuke) is located near the site of one of the early Viking settlements in Greenland. Even older are the remains of some aboriginal settlements that have been found in the vicinity, the oldest dating back more than 4,000 years. Today, Nuuk bustles with life and activity: 15% of the country's population lives there, and most have arrived since 1950. The explosive growth has created vast, ugly blocks of apartments along with the typical urban footprint of government buildings, schools and hotels.

You might want to begin your visit by stopping at Santa's Workshop, which houses the tourist office. It also sells local handicrafts and postcards, as well as Greenlandic stamps, which are valued by collectors.

After you've gotten your bearings, plan on paying a visit to Katuaq ("the drum"), the Greenland Cultural Center. This triangular complex houses the Nordic Institute on Greenland, as well as Greenland's only cinema. Visitors can also enjoy art exhibitions, concerts, theater performances and a nice cafe.

The National Museum contains displays on Greenland's culture and history, as well as artifacts such as dogsleds and kayaks. The highlight of the museum is a group of well-preserved mummies that date from 1475. They were accidentally discovered by hunters in western Greenland in 1972.

Among the town's historic sites are Hans Egede's house (the oldest colonial house in Greenland, built in 1728 by the missionary who founded the town) and the New Hernnhut Mission (originally a Christian missionary center, it now houses the university). You might also want to stop by the kayak workshop on the harbor: It sometimes presents special exhibitions of kayaking skills. The fjords near Nuuk are a good place for hiking, fishing (trout, haddock and salmon) and whale-watching. 350 mi/560 km south of Disko Bay.

Paamiut (Frederikshaab)—This important fishing town has many fine colonial buildings, considered the most handsome of their kind in Greenland. Other sites of interest include a small museum and a church from 1909. Though this area is rarely visited by tourists, it provides excellent terrain for hardy trekkers and is the home of the white-tailed eagle. 175 mi/280 km south of Nuuk.

Sisimiut (Holsteinsborg)—This village, located 30 mi/50 km north of the Arctic Circle, is the second largest in Greenland and is home to the second-largest college, Knud Rasmussenip Hojskoliat. Perhaps the most distinctive landmark in Old Town is the whale jawbone marking the entrance to a small square, where you'll find the 1773 Blue Church (also called Bethels Church). Behind the church is the old vicarage, which now serves as a kindergarten. A museum and the Gamle Butik (Old Store, dating from 1852) are in the old part of town as well. The aged buildings at the harbor are also worth a visit. South of Old Town is the red church, Bojsen-Mollers. 200 mi/320 km north of Nuuk.

Overview

Introduction

Inuit villages were scattered around Qaanaaq (Thule) in far northwestern Greenland when the area was explored by Sir James Ross in 1818 (and later by Knud Rasmussen). Today, special permits are required for visits to this region because it is home to the Thule Air Base operated by the U.S. (located at Pittuffik). The base was built in a few weeks during the height of the Cold War (1951)—the undertaking was dubbed Operation Blue Jay. Although other NATO bases in Greenland have been closed, the base at Thule remains in operation, but there has been talk of converting it to a civil airport. Aside from the base, the region contains some of the northernmost civilian communities in the world. It's not easy to visit this area, nor is it cheap, but those interested in doing so can start by obtaining the necessary permit: Contact the U.S. Air Attache at the U.S. Embassy in Copenhagen, Denmark. (If you plan to visit as part of an organized tour, your operator may handle all of the necessary permits.) 620 mi/1,000 km north of Nuuk.

Overview

Introduction

The island's agricultural center will appeal most to visitors seeking outdoor activities, from hiking to serious rock climbing. Field ice (floating sheets of ice—not to be confused with icebergs) drift in this area in spring and summer, and they occasionally impede vessels that carry supplies to the villages.

Igaliku—This tiny village (known in ancient times as Gardar), shielded by the mountains and blessed with good soil, is in a sheep-raising and vegetable-growing area. It was the main religious center for the Vikings in Greenland, and you can still see the ruins of their cathedral, which was built in the 1100s. Hvalsey Church, one of Greenland's best Viking ruins, is five hours away from Igaliku by boat. 305 mi/490 km southeast of Nuuk.

Nanortalik—This town of 1,500 offers well-kept gardens and scenic views of the surrounding granite mountains. The water around Nanortalik is good for kayaking, and hunters returning in their kayaks with their catch are a year-round sight. In May and June, visitors can witness the feverish activity caused by migrating hooded seals. A good number of the townsfolk move to old hunting grounds in the skerries (small rocky reefs or islands), where they live in tents and mud huts while hunting the seals. Attractions within the town include a churchyard from the colonial period (built in 1916) and a museum (housed in old buildings once used by the Royal Greenland Trade Department). Greenland's largest wooded area lies six hours on foot from the nearby settlement of Tasiusaq. Nanortalik is 350 mi/565 km southeast of Nuuk.

Narsaq—Set against a mountain backdrop, this village offers several attractions, including a museum (equipment and products from famous local printer and publisher Frederik Hoegh); the home of Henrik Lund (a priest and poet who wrote the national anthem); the Krystal Palace (a workshop specializing in modeling local stones); and Narsaq Foto (where John Rasmussen tells the story of life in South Greenland through photography). At Kayak Harbor, you'll see some old kayaks, icebergs and hunters returning with seals. At the nearby mountain of Kvanefjeld, you can hunt for tuttupit (gemstones), and uranium deposits have also been found in the area. Narsaq is 295 mi/475 km southeast of Nuuk.

Narsarsuaq—This airport, which was founded in 1941 as a U.S. air base—personnel departed shortly after World War II—is the gateway to the beautiful Skov and Eiriks fjords and one of the Greenland airports reached by international flights. We highly recommend the area: It's refreshing to walk through the town and its non-ice-covered surroundings of plains, dry riverbeds and wildflowers against a backdrop of glaciers and rugged, barren mountains (nearby Mount Igdlerfik can be climbed in the summer).

Just a half-hour away by boat is Qassiarsuk (Brattahlid), a village that occupies the site of the Viking settlement founded by Eric the Red in the 900s. The ruins of Viking houses and a reconstructed church can be visited. Other trips from Narsarsuaq include a boat excursion down the Qooroq Fjord to Qooqqut Sermiat Glacier (a half-day boat trip) and a hike to Kiagtuut Sermiat Glacier (a six- to eight-hour trip). Narsarsuaq has one big hotel and a youth hostel. 300 mi/480 km southeast of Nuuk.

Qaqortoq (Julianehab)—With its multicolored houses perched on a mountainside overlooking icebergs, Qaqortoq rates as one of the most beautiful towns on the island (with very friendly people). Several old buildings sit around the square, which boasts the only fountain in Greenland. The Cooper's Shop dates from 1781. A museum displays Inuit utensils and Viking artifacts. Behind the museum, there's an exact copy of a turf house from the beginning of the 1900s. The town tannery processes skins and furs and sells high-quality fur coats and hats around the world: Tours of the tannery can be arranged. Other interesting sites include the Culture House (art exhibits) and the old church (a beautiful red wood building).

One popular excursion from Qaqortoq is the boat ride to Hvalsey Church, the most famous and best-preserved Viking ruin in Greenland. On the nearby island of Uunartoq, you can hike to several hot-spring pools—at 95 F/35 C, they are suitable for a dip. Lounging in the warm water while icebergs crash about in the nearby inlet is a rather bizarre experience—but one you won't forget. Qaqortoq is 300 mi/485 km southeast of Nuuk.


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