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Overview

Introduction

The Marshall Islands are one of four atoll nations in the world, the others being The Seychelles, The Maldives and nearby Kiribati. Tourism is still slow to develop in the Republic of the Marshall Islands, but it is making progress. The atolls all have white-sand beaches and azure lagoons with deep blue drop-offs outside.

Diving remains the main attraction for those who visit the 29 atolls that make up the Marshall Islands. Bikini Atoll, the scene of 1950s nuclear testing, is open half the year for specialized diving.

Majuro, the capital, is well-equipped for visiting divers and offers reef, wreck and drop-off diving that is superb. The Rongelap islanders have invested in a live-aboard ship that has adopted an ambitious itinerary, opening up some island areas. It also offers fishing excursions.

Roughly half the country's population lives on Majuro, which is a five-hour jet flight from Honolulu. Another quarter lives on overcrowded Ebeye, an island close to the U.S. military base on Kwajalein, where most of the people of Ebeye work. The other atolls are undeveloped for tourists, with few amenities. None of the republic's islands is more than 12 ft/3.5 m above sea level, and it's almost impossible to be on land in the Marshalls and be more than a stone's throw away from open ocean or an enclosed lagoon.

For the adventurous, however, they offer an opportunity to meet friendly people, many of whom speak English. On these outer atolls, you will seldom have to share the beautiful white-sand beaches and crystal-clear lagoons with a single other tourist.

Geography

About midway between Hawaii and Guam, the Marshall Islands encompass two island/atoll chains, the Ratak (Sunrise) Chain and the Ralik (Sunset) Chain. Each atoll is a cluster of several small islands, islets and reefs circling a lagoon. The nation covers about 500,000 sq mi/1,295,000 sq km, only 70 sq mi/181 sq km of which is land.

History

The islands were settled by Micronesians at least 2,000 years ago. Europeans first arrived in the 16th century, but the islands remained mostly isolated from Western culture until Germany claimed the area in the 19th century. Japan seized the islands at the start of World War I, and after the war the Marshalls remained in the Pacific Mandate awarded to Japan by the League of Nations. The U.S. wrested control of the islands during World War II, after some bloody battles. In 1947, the newly launched United Nations created the Pacific Trust Territory and entrusted care of the Marshalls to the U.S. It was in the ensuing decade and a half that some of the islands were used for nuclear tests.

By 1978, the Marshall Islands were officially separated from the rest of the Trust Territory, becoming the Republic of the Marshall Islands, and in September 1983 most of the Marshallese voted in favor of a Compact of Free Association with the U.S. Although the U.S. still controls external and defense matters for the republic, independence was granted in 1990. U.S. influence is still significant, however. The U.S. dollar remains the official currency.

Even with payments of millions of dollars a year from the U.S., the republic remains a poor country. There is much urban poverty in Majuro and Ebeye. But for the most part, the Marshallese remain friendly, open people.

One odd turn of events that has Marshallese people talking, especially those in Majuro, is the unexpected result of the passport program. Back when Hong Kong was set to assimilate into mainland China, the Republic offered Marshallese citizenship for a high price. The Marshallese anticipated that those buying the passports would make use of the free association with the U.S. and try to move to the U.S.

However, many Chinese businessmen settled in the Marshalls Islands and now have signficant influence and control of the private sector. The late 2005 sale of the local RRE Store, a family enterprise started decades ago, is being greeted with criticism. The Marshallese people worry that they have lost control of the economy on their own island. Other businessmen think this infusion will be good for the economy. The debate will most likely continue to rage for years to come.

Snapshot

The foremost attractions of the Marshall Islands are snorkeling, scuba diving, deep-sea fishing, beaches, war relics, island culture and historical sites (some underwater).

The country is a destination for the adventurous. Majuro and Ebeye, though lively, are crowded urban centers. The outer islands are remote outposts with beautiful beaches, but most lack even rudimentary hotels or restaurants. Diving and fishing trips to these atolls must be arranged in Majuro.

Potpourri

With the government being the largest employer in the Marshalls, islanders have moved abroad to find jobs, education and a better living wage. Many have formed large communities in Hawaii and California. According to one National Public Radio report, 6,000 Marshallese reside in northwest Arkansas. The Marshallese migration to the U.S. can be traced, in part, to the loss of land and health-care problems related to the nuclear testing in the 1950s.

Pacific International Inc., the country's largest construction firm, is fueling its fleet of heavy equipment and its ocean-going vessels with cheaper and cleaner coconut oil.

Chinese-owned mom-and-pop stores, auto rentals and taxi companies, and restaurants have increasingly crowded out small businesses once dominated by Marshallese.

Marshallese today face an even greater threat than nuclear bombs: junk food. The islanders have developed such a fondness for sugary, processed foods that 75% of hospital patients suffer from diabetes.

Serendipper, a small resort in Majuro lagoon, is the brainchild of a Japanese dive-shop owner who wanted to create an eco-friendly resort. This small island has some Bali-style units, and guests are given biodegradable paper slippers and wooden chopsticks as part of the pro-environment philosophy of the resort.

As long as you don't eat the coconuts, scientists say you'll actually be exposed to less radiation during your stay on Bikini than if you simply stay at home and watch TV.

Although the islands' role as U.S. atomic testing ground has been discontinued, arguments continue over the effects of the bombing. Rongelap and Utirik Islands had extensive nuclear fallout from hydrogen bomb Bravo, which was detonated on Bikini Island in 1954. The explosion, allegedly equaling 750 bombs of the type dropped on Hiroshima, was set off after the local population had been moved. Unfortunately, test coordinators ignored a wind shift, which sent radioactive "snow" falling onto the islands. Consequently, skeptical islanders still don't think it's safe to return home. About 40% of the Rongelap islanders have developed cancer.

Often, the best part of a trip to the Marshall Islands—especially to islands off the beaten track—is getting to know the residents.

The region is heaven for divers—many wrecks and beautiful reefs are visible only a few feet/meters below the surface.

The traditional tools for making tattoos were the bones of seabirds from Wake Island. Tattoos were a rite of passage for both men and women in the Marshall Islands, though only chiefs received facial tattoos. Another physical feature that astounded early explorers of the Marshall Islands was the length of the islanders' earlobes. The Marshallese stretched their lobes at least 3 in/8 cm, and by some accounts, the lengthiest lobes, which usually belonged to chiefs, could be pulled over the head.

If global warming should raise the world's sea level, several island nations, including the Marshall Islands, could disappear completely beneath the ocean. Plans to transport their citizens to other countries are already being made.


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