Overview

Introduction

Wedged into the southeastern corner of the Czech Republic, about 28 mi/45 km south of Brno, the Lednice-Valtice Cultural Landscape is an extensive UNESCO-designated area surrounding the small Moravian towns of Lednice and Valtice.

The cultural landscape unites the area's natural features and its architectural past in an unspoiled whole—all meant for leisurely exploration on foot, on horseback, by bike or even by car. Two important castles of the Liechtenstein family in Lednice and Valtice anchor an array of other chateaus, garden houses and decorative sculptures in various styles. Set off by numerous ponds and forests, the cultural landscape covers 95 sq mi/250 sq km of the Dyje River watershed.

Those venturing to the far reaches of the republic should make sure to stop off at Mikulov, a sleepy, hilly South Moravian wine village on the border with Austria. Its remarkable castle sits on a limestone cliff, dominating the skyline as you approach. In addition to wine, Mikulov is known for the remnants of its once-thriving Jewish community—the country's second largest before World War II.

Overview

Introduction

Graced with an average of 2,640 hours of sunshine per year, Nice, France, proudly wears the colors of Chagall and Matisse: Its Mediterranean bay is azure blue, its tiled roofs are red, its houses ocher and yellow, and its gardens emerald green. All those colors also show up at the wonderful flower market on Cours Saleya and on the tiny bikini bottoms worn on the pebbly but oh-so-fashionable beaches.

Greeks and Romans, Savoyard kings and wealthy visitors have shaped the destiny of Nice, and still this is the only town on the Cote d'Azur that doesn't seem to depend on its 4 million tourists per year. The dynamic capital of the departement of Alpes-Maritimes may be the most-visited French city after Paris, but it is still a very local affair.

If you avoid the summer months in Nice, you can still enjoy the local cuisine to its fullest and soak up the Mediterranean light that Picasso so loved. And the stunning highlights of the French Riviera are just a few minutes' drive away.

Must See or Do

Sights—Hotel Negresco; Chapelle de la Misericorde et de la Confrerie des Penitents Noirs; Cathedrale Orthodoxe Russe St. Nicolas; Eglise du Gesu.

Museums—Musee d'Art Moderne et d'Art Contemporain; Musee Matisse; Musee National Message Biblique Marc Chagall; Musee des Arts Asiatiques.

Memorable Meals—La Merenda; Chez Pipo.

Late Night—Les Trois Diables; High Club and Studio 47.

Walks—Cours Saleya; Promenade des Anglais; Parc Floral Phoenix; Port Lympia.

Especially for Kids—An afternoon at one of the beaches; ice skating in the Complexe Jean Bouin; the playground in the Parc du Chateau.

Geography

Nice enjoys a privileged position between a gently curving bay of the Mediterranean Sea and the mountains of the Ligurian Alps, which shelter it from cold northern winds. Palms, eucalyptus and citrus trees give Nice a subtropical appearance. In the hinterland, the Arriere Pays, you'll find olive groves, pine woods, wild flowers and perched villages, which offer fabulous vistas along with cooling summer breezes.

The major areas of tourist interest are the Old Town (Vieux Nice), the New Town to the west with the Promenade des Anglais and the major boulevards, the leafy district of Cimiez with its first-class museums to the north, and the port to the east of the Old Town.

History

At the site known as Terra Amata at the foot of Mont Boron, remnants of a prehistoric human camp some 400,000 years old have been unearthed. Around 1000 BC, the Ligurians built their oppida at the mouth of the Paillon River and on the hill overlooking the valley.

Classical civilization goes back to the fourth century BC, when Phocaean Greeks from Marseille sailed into the harbor and founded a commercial colony near the seaside oppidum around a hill they called Nikaia (today Colline du Chateau).

In 100 BC, the Romans, called in to help against Ligurian pirates, chose to stay on and built a city on a third hill that they called Cemenelum (today's Cimiez). By the third century, Cemenelum had 20,000 inhabitants, who enjoyed such luxuries as Roman baths and an amphitheater.

In the early Middle Ages, Nice was invaded and destroyed by Saracens and Barbarians, but in the 14th century the city rose again. In 1382, Jeanne, Queen of Sicily and Countess of Provence, was smothered to death on the order of her cousin Charles of Durazzo, Prince of Naples. He and another cousin, Louis of Anjou, tried to rule Nice, but the city preferred to side with the Counts of Savoy and spend the prosperous Renaissance and Baroque times Italian-style.

With Louis XIV, the French made a comeback by blowing up the city's fortifications, but apart from a brief period of control by Revolutionary forces between 1792 and 1814, Nice belonged to Savoy until 1860, when the King of Sardinia ceded the city of Nice and Savoy to Napoleon III in the (secret) Treaty of Turin. The treaty was later ratified in a rigged plebiscite.

By 1755 the first wealthy British travelers seeking winter warmth had set up shop in Nice and on the Riviera. In 1830 they financed the building of the seafront esplanade along the Baie des Anges, known to this day as the Promenade des Anglais. Soon it was lined by elegant hotels, and Nice became the favorite meeting place for European glitterati in winter. In the 1890s, Queen Victoria sealed Nice's fate by making the suburb of Cimiez her winter residence.

Famous writers, film stars, composers and painters such as Picasso and Matisse flocked to Nice, followed by an armada of tourists.

Potpourri

Italy's national hero, Giuseppe Garibaldi, was born in Nice on 4 July 1807.

Masterpieces of world literature were written in Nice, including Thus Spoke Zarathustra by German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche and Three Sisters by Russian playwright Anton Chekhov.

In front of the Hotel Negresco, the famous dancer Isadora Duncan was accidentally strangled to death in 1927 when the large, red silk scarf draped around her neck became entangled around one of the open-spoked wheels and rear axel of her Bugatti.

Alphonse Karr was a great 19th-century French journalist who lived in Nice for the second half of his life. He is famous for his quote "Plus ca change, plus c'est la meme chose" which roughly translates to "The more things change, the more they remain the same." He also was an avid horticulturist who had more than one flower variety named for him and practically founded the trade of cut flowers on the French Riviera.

Catherine Segurane is Nice's "Jeanne d'Arc." When joint French and Turkish armies besieged the town in 1543, Catherine supposedly inspired the defenders with a "patriotic" gesture by showing the enemy her bare bottom.

Nice has two classes of summer tourists: the juilletistes, who flock to the beaches in July (mainly foreigners), and the aoutiens, who replace them in August (mainly French).

Location

The Port de Nice is located on the Quai du Commerce, close to the French Riviera Chamber of Commerce (phone 4-9200-4214; http://www.riviera-ports.com). The Port of Villefranche Darse is located east of Nice, on Villefranche-sur-Mer's main quay (phone 4-9301-7805; http://www.riviera-ports.com). Both Nice and Villefranche's terminals are largely commercial and, apart from a Chamber of Commerce office in both, offer little for tourists. However, each is situated in its respective town's oldest neighborhood, and numerous bars, cafes, restaurants and shops abound within walking distance. Boat trips to Monaco, St. Tropez and the Ile Ste. Marguerite are on offer from both ports. A free shuttle bus connects Port Lympia with the larger commercial port of Villefranche, which serves the car ferries to Corsica and Sardinia as well as the Mediterranean cruise ships.

The cruise ship pier in the nearby principality of Monaco (Nouvelle Digue de Monaco) is located at the Port of Monaco (Hercules Port), just east of the Palais Princier (the home of Monaco's ruler, Prince Albert), and just below the ritzy center of Monte Carlo. The 1,155-ft/352-m dock can accommodate several ships in port, but occasionally tenders are still needed because of the vast number of superyachts in the harbor during high season. Phone 377-9777-3000. http://www.ports-monaco.com/lang-en/le-port-hercule.html.

Surprisingly, given the principality's reputation as a playground for the rich, there is little at the pier itself in the way of amenities. Most visitors simply follow the seawall adjacent to the yacht harbor to get to Monte Carlo (the distance being roughly 1 mi/1.6 km from the ship) or take an elevator and stairs (about 1,483 ft/452 m immediately to Old Town (Monaco-Ville).

Shore Excursions

Overview

Introduction

Venice, Italy, is romance: a bridge arching over a canal, a gondola gliding by, the moon reflecting off water. Venice is history: the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace), Piazza San Marco, the Grand Canal, great art and great museums. Venice is modern: the headline names and paparazzi of the Venice Film Festival, the buzzing excitement of Carnival in the 10 days before Lent begins.

Venice has a plethora of world-famous museums and artistic treasures. The Basilica di San Marco, with its spectacular Golden Altar; the Bridge of Sighs, where prisoners could enjoy one last glimpse of the beautiful city before entering the dark jail; the Gallerie dell'Accademia, with its collection of art of the 14th-18th centuries; the Peggy Guggenheim Collection of 20th-century art—the list is long. Pick and choose which places you'll visit in-depth, or just skim the surface and soak up the atmosphere.

Venice is set on islands connected by bridges, with the Grand Canal as its main thoroughfare, and traffic moves by boats that range from the traditional gondolas to refuse barges. The absence of automobile noise means you can hear the laughter of children from your window, as well as footsteps seemingly just around the corner. But what makes Venice so unique also challenges its existence. The rising sea levels of global climate change threaten the city, and now, more often than in the past, high tides from the Adriatic Sea can flood whole sections of the city.

Although the resident population in Venice has declined as many young people have moved to the mainland, where real-estate prices and the cost of living are lower, the city continues to draw tourists. In fact, the central areas can be packed, people may be brusque, and prices are high. Even so, Venice remains a treasure to be savored.

Must See or Do

Sights—Basilica di San Marco; Piazza San Marco; the Grand Canal by boat or gondola; the islands of Burano, Murano and Torcello; the Lido in fair weather.

Museums—Gallerie dell'Accademia; Museo Correr; the Peggy Guggenheim Collection; the Doge's Palace; Museo Ebraico; Palazzo Fortuny.

Memorable Meals—Ca' d'Oro alla Vedova for cicheti and baked mussels; risotto alla Torcellana at Locanda Cipriani; bigoli in salsa (spaghetti with anchovy and onion sauce, a Venetian specialty) at Trattoria Gatto Nero; fried razor clams at Vini da Gigio.

Late Night—Hanging out in Campo Santa Margherita; people-watching at Piccolo Mondo; strolling the Piazza San Marco under a full moon or on a foggy night; an after-dinner drink at Vineria all'Amarone.

Walks—Crossing the Rialto Bridge; getting lost in Sestiere di San Marco; wandering down Via Garibaldi.

Especially for Kids—Dressing up for Carnival and parading around town; traghetto rides; exploring the prisons and armory of the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace).

Geography

Venice sprawls across hundreds of low-lying islands in a lagoon in the northern crescent of the Adriatic Sea. A single bridge links it to the mainland city of Mestre. Traffic ends at Piazzale Roma, making the city serenely free of buses, cars and motorcycles—even bicycles are prohibited.

The city's main thoroughfare is the Grand Canal. The islands are also crisscrossed by 177 smaller canals and connected by more than 400 pedestrian bridges. Streets are narrow and winding—some little more than sidewalks between buildings. The city is divided into six sestieri (districts): Cannaregio, San Polo, San Marco, Dorsoduro, Castello and Santa Croce.

A map of the city resembles a labyrinth, but surprisingly, it is not too difficult to find your way to the main attractions. Yellow signs are posted on the buildings at most major intersections, with arrows directing you to Piazzale Roma, Ferrovia (the train station, Santa Lucia), Rialto Bridge, Accademia Bridge and Piazza San Marco.

Specific addresses, however, can be hard to find, as many streets are so small they aren't on maps. Directories usually list addresses by the name of the sestiere and the number of the building, with no reference to a street. Often the easiest way to find a shop or restaurant is to ask—most people are helpful, and many speak English. Hotel employees and shopkeepers are usually quite knowledgeable about their neighborhoods.

Several islands in the lagoon are also part of the city area or connected to the city by regular public boats. In addition to Giudecca (the large island across from the Zattere) and Lido (where you'll find beaches), the best-known are the glassmaking island of Murano, colorful Burano and the lagoon's original seat of power, Torcello. The airport is on the mainland, north of Mestre.

History

As invaders swept down from the Alps in the fifth century, the farmers and fisherfolk living along what is now Italy's northeastern coast sought refuge on nearby scrub-covered islands. From the safety of their lagoon in the Adriatic, Venetians began building a powerful trading empire. By the ninth century, religious and political power had moved from Torcello to the island of Rivoaltum, where the Venetian leaders began clearing the land and driving wooden piles into the mud beneath the water—laying the foundations of modern Venice.

The city's merchants and traders (including Marco Polo's relatives) amassed huge fortunes, which were invested in the city. The fortunes built grand palaces and huge churches, and funded precious art collections (some of which still adorn the Basilica di San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale).

At its peak in the 1400s, the Repubblica Serenissima (the Most Serene Republic, as it was known) ruled the Adriatic and eastern Mediterranean—its democratic-style government served as an international model for centuries. But the republic soon began to decay, weakened by expansion wars, famines, plagues and finally by invading French troops, led by Napoleon in 1797. French control ended when Venice was ceded to the Hapsburg Empire a few years later. In 1866 it switched hands again, joining the Kingdom of Italy.

Today, Venice is the capital of Italy's Veneto region and one of the country's most visited cities. Its watery setting and tourism-based economy bring modern challenges, such as structural erosion caused by motorboat wakes and a steadily decreasing population as younger generations move to less-expensive cities with more job opportunities. The proud Venetians are not ones to give in easily, though, and as measures are being taken to protect this fragile city, more travelers from around the world will have the opportunity to discover the treasures hidden within it.

Potpourri

A traditional gondola is 36 ft/11 m long and weighs 1,325 lb/600 kg. They are required by law to be painted black.

In the 16th century, an anonymous writer published an escort guide for visitors that listed the names, addresses, looks, skills and costs of the most beautiful courtesans in Venice. In 1509, about 11,500 working girls are said to have offered their services in Venice, which had a population of 170,000 at the time.

Amaretti (dome-shaped cookies) were first made in Venice during the Renaissance period.

St. Mark is the patron saint of Venice. His symbol of a winged lion holding a book can be seen on many of the older buildings. If the book is open, Venice was at peace when the building was erected; if closed, Venice was at war.

Casanova made the city synonymous with lovers. Once imprisoned in the Doge's Palace, he escaped by fleeing across the rooftops.

City-son Marco Polo is attributed with introducing both pasta and window blinds to Italy from the Far East.

The still-standing "Bridge of the Tits" in San Polo was named after the working girls who displayed themselves on the bridge and in the windows of the nearby houses in a "tempting state of undress" while the light from oil lamps illuminated the spectacle.

In 2010, Giorgia Boscolo became Venice's first female gondolier. It's a lucrative business. In high season, a gondolier can make 5,000 euros a month or more (depending on their singing skills).

Glass production has a 700-year-old tradition in Venice and was once regarded as a state secret. Revealing the secret could have meant the death penalty for the "traitor."

Location

Cruise ships no longer dock directly in Venice, instead docking at Marghera on the mainland. Formerly, the two main docking areas were San Basilio pier, in the Giudecca Canal; and the Stazione Marittima, where bigger ships docked.

The quickest way into Venice from Marghera is to take a train from the port into the center of Venice.

Because Stazione Marittima and San Basilio are part of the Terminal Venezia Passeggeri (Venice Cruise Terminal), they have tourist information, duty-free shops, ATM machines, a currency exchange bureau, free Wi-Fi and refreshment facilities. All terminals have water taxis. http://www.vtp.it.

Venice Yacht Pier offers five private yacht berths located near the Stazione Marittima, San Basilio and along the St. Mark's Basin.

Shore Excursions

Outings include walking or boat tours of San Marco, a few churches and museums, Vivaldi's home and gondola rides.

Private tour companies may offer day tours, walking tours, gondola trips, bacaro tours (walking tours of traditional wine bars where Venetian tapas, known as cichetti, are served), excursions to the glass factories and many more. Inquire about pickup from where the cruise ship is docked.