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Overview

Introduction

American Samoans might like football and fast food, but that doesn't mean that their lives are fast-paced.

The U.S. influence on these beautiful islands has meant a greater demand for consumer goods and some of the accoutrements of the good life, U.S.-style. But underlying the superficial changes is a solid base of strong Samoan traditions, known as the Fa'a Samoa, or Samoan Way, which they share with their cousins in the nearby independent nation of Samoa. It means that life still moves at a relaxed, leisurely pace. In fact, the Fa'a Samoa is one of the islands' greatest assets.

Although off the modern tourist track, the islands are astonishingly beautiful, too. The two coral atolls and five volcanic islands that make up American Samoa are lush and green, with sharp peaks rising along the coastline. They're not our favorite islands in the South Pacific, but they can be a good introduction to the region.

Geography

American Samoa lies in the middle of the South Pacific, just east of the International Date Line. To the west is the independent nation of Samoa. The two Samoas share a common culture but are separate states.

The only U.S. territory south of the equator, American Samoa consists of five main islands: Tutuila (the largest and site of the capital, Pago Pago), Ta'u, Ofu, Olosega and Aunu'u. A handful of small, uninhabited islets are also part of the territory. Rain forests cover much of the islands, but there are spectacular beaches and rugged mountains, too.

History

It's generally thought that present-day Samoans are descended from Polynesians who migrated from Southeast Asia more than 3,000 years ago. Ancient Samoans' navigational skills were as keen as the Vikings', and early European visitors received a Viking-like reception: Shortly after landing on the northern coast of Tutuila in 1787, the French expedition was attacked by Samoan warriors. At least 12 explorers and 39 Samoans were killed, and the battle site is now known as Massacre Bay.

European traders and whaling ships continued to visit the islands, and friendly relations were eventually established. By the early 1800s, Christian missionaries had arrived and were having great success converting Samoans. (Samoan creation stories are similar to those in the Bible, and a Samoan god, Nafanua, is said to have predicted the arrival of a new religion. Given these conditions, it's not surprising that many Samoans quickly accepted Christianity.)

The U.S. negotiated a deal with local chiefs for the right to use Pago Pago harbor in 1872, and by 1904 had assumed control of all of the islands that now constitute American Samoa. Still, Samoan life didn't change much until the 1960s. Fearing that American Samoans would follow the lead of newly independent Western Samoa (a former German colony), the U.S. swooped into Tutuila and built roads, schools, an airport and other elements of modern infrastructure. American Samoa remains an unincorporated territory of the U.S. Since 1977, it has elected its own governor and local legislature (known as the Fono), as well as one nonvoting representative in Congress. American Samoans are U.S. nationals, not U.S. citizens, and cannot vote in U.S. presidential elections.

The economy is supported primarily by two aging tuna canneries built beside Pago Pago Harbour in the 1950s. Since two-thirds of all American Samoas now live in the U.S., the majority of cannery workers hail from independent Samoa. Changes in U.S. immigration law after the terrorist attacks of 11 September 2001, require that citizens of Samoa have passports and visas before entering American Samoa, which prompted the Samoan government to retaliate by requiring U.S. nationals (but not U.S. citizens) to have entry permits before entering Samoa. Strained relations between the two eased somewhat with the opening of a Samoan consulate in Pago Pago.

Snapshot

American Samoa's chief attractions include beautiful coastal and mountain scenery, beaches, relaxation, hiking and indigenous culture.

These islands are lovely, but their appeal is primarily to those who will be comforted—not annoyed—by the constant reminders of the U.S. presence. This is not the place for travelers who want to deeply immerse themselves in traditional Polynesian life.

Potpourri

Although there are islands other than Tutuila and the Manu'a Group, they're impossible to visit (most are uninhabited wildlife preserves). With unreliable air and shipping services, even the Manu'a Group should be considered off-limits except for adventurous travelers without time constraints.

Early explorers got the name papalagi, or sky bursters, because Samoans believed they came from the space between the sky and the sea. The name, shortened to palagi, is still used to refer to visitors with white skin, and travelers can expect to hear the word shouted at them in greeting—in a friendly rather than a hostile way.

Tongan fruit bats live in American Samoa National Park. Nicknamed "flying foxes," these graceful, soaring mammals can have wingspans up to 3 ft/1 m.

The National Park of American Samoa is the only U.S. national park where the federal government does not own the land. In keeping with Samoan custom of communal land ownership, the National Park Service leased the property rather than buying it.

American Samoa is the most southerly of all lands under U.S. sovereignty.

Samoans hold most local government positions, including that of governor.

In October locals scoop up palolo (sea worm eggs)—some say they taste like caviar.

Location

Cruise ships dock among a mountain of shipping containers at the Main Wharf in otherwise scenic Pago Pago Harbor. The port has no amenities for cruise ship passengers, but locals sell trinkets and provide entertainment, cultural exhibits and Samoan food.



Shore Excursions

Passengers can walk around town or explore Tutuila Island by rental car, local bus or with Pago Pago Tradewinds Tours (phone 688-7722), which has guided bus excursions along Tutuila Island's south coast. It's always best to rely on the advice of the cruise director there.

Overview

Introduction

The nation that was once called Western Samoa is now simply Samoa. Sometimes it's also referred to as independent Samoa, a particularly apt name for this Polynesian island group, where people still very much go their own way, as they have for more than three millennia.

Indeed, life in this widely scattered group of islands is deeply rooted in the ways of ancient Polynesian culture. The older residents have struggled hard to preserve the traditional Fa'a Samoa, or Samoan way, which along with beautiful beaches and colorful lagoons makes these islands well worth a visit.

When Robert Louis Stevenson, the author of Treasure Island, arrived in Samoa in the late 1800s, he planned to stay only a few days. But he was so intrigued by the place that he remained there until he died. Samoa has changed since then, but it is far less commercialized than its eastern neighbor, American Samoa. You might not want to live out your life there, but you'll surely be sad to leave.

Geography

Samoa consists of two large islands (Savai'i and Upolu) plus seven smaller ones—five of which are uninhabited. The larger islands have mountainous interiors formed by chains of volcanoes that poured lava down their slopes to the sea. (The last eruption occurred in 1911.) As a result, most of the land angles steadily down from the volcanic crater to a narrow coastline. Half of the islands' inhabited land is taken up by hardwood forests; the rest is used mostly for agriculture.

History

Legend holds that the Samoan islands were the home of the original Polynesians 3,000 years ago, and local residents claim to be the purest of all the Polynesian civilizations (DNA evidence points to modern-day Taiwan as their likely origin).

Except for a 300-year occupation by Tongans, the Samoans were undisturbed until British missionary John Williams landed on Savai'i in 1830. Williams converted thousands to Christianity and introduced trade with Europe.

The Samoas were divided in 1899 when Germany seized the western islands: The U.S. took the rest. New Zealand took control of Germany's islands at the start of World War I and, after a tumultuous rule, granted Samoa its independence in 1962.

The country is officially governed as a parliamentary democracy, but Malietoa Tanumafili II, one of four paramount chiefs, held the title of head of state for life. His power was limited, however, and when he died in 2007, the parliament chose a new head of state from among the other paramount chiefs, to serve a five-year term.

The Fono (unicameral parliament) consists of 49 Samoan members and two of mixed Samoan-European heritage. All are chosen by universal suffrage, but by custom only the 25,000 matais (chiefs) stand for the Samoan seats.

The Human Rights Protection Party has held a majority in parliament since 1982 and has fought to keep opposition parties from gaining a foothold. In 2005, the U.S. State Department criticized Samoa as a one-party state.

The country suffered a severe economic recession after two damaging hurricanes and a blight devastated the taro crops in the 1990s, but the government's public works projects and pro-business policies had resulted in relative boom times since 2001.

Sadly, the islands suffered a severe setback in September 2009 when a tsunami caused by an 8.0-magnitude earthquake devastated resort areas. Powerful waves smashed into the west coast of the main island of Upolu, where most resorts were totally devastated.

Although far from poverty-stricken, Samoa is not a rich nation.

The villages are run much as they have been for centuries—with a system known as the fa'amatai, with the matais elected by the aigas, or extended families. In theory, the aigas own all wealth and property in the villages communally, although competition among aigas is often vigorous.

Snapshot

The chief attractions of Samoa are Polynesian culture, scuba diving, deep-sea fishing, good food, beaches and relaxation.

Most people interested in the South Pacific will enjoy Samoa, even if they have never been to any other islands. Recent resort development provides the comforts of Hawaii, Fiji and French Polynesia from which to gain an understanding of Polynesian culture.

Potpourri

Rugby is the national sport of Samoa, although locals also love cricket, which they call kirikiti.

Because Samoa sits just east of the international date line, it is one of the last nations on Earth to ring in the new year. Neighboring Tonga, however, on the west side of the date line, is one of the first.

Despite a rich tradition of dance in Samoa, there is no specific word for "dance" in Polynesian languages.

The only people who still refer to the islands as Western Samoa are American Samoans, who claim they are as much "Samoan" as the independent Samoans.

If you're in Apia in late October or early November (the exact date's determined by the full moon) the reefs will be alive with locals searching for palolo (coral worms), the "caviar of the Pacific."

Three-quarters of Samoa's population lives on the northern shore of Upolu.

Robert Louis Stevenson, who lived his last four years in Apia, was making mayonnaise when he died of a cerebral hemorrhage.

Under Samoan custom, families with a shortage of female offspring may raise boys as girls. Many continue to live as transvestites, known as fa'faines, in adulthood. The practice makes Samoa tolerant to gay male visitors.

More than 99% of Samoans are Christian and devoutly so. Large churches are the most grandiose buildings in Samoa, and some ministers read aloud the names of those who donated on Sunday, as well as of those who did not.

Location

Occasional cruise ships dock at the Main Wharf on Beach Road in Apia. The commercial port has no facilities dedicated exclusively to cruise passengers, but locals provide entertainment and sell handicrafts, and tour operators offer the same island excursions available to other visitors. Internet access, car rentals and other services are across Beach Road or short walks away.


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