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Overview

Introduction

This attractive large city is Bolivia's richest—you'll see expensive cars and luxury merchandise for sale (and plenty of affordable arts and crafts as well). The people of the city and the department (Santa Cruz), known as Cambas, are very proud of their success. By any measure, the Santa Cruz region is the country's wealthiest, and the city is considered the country's most progressive. It is also among the fastest growing, with a population roughly equal to La Paz. There are many Mennonites and Japanese immigrants to the east who have been credited with teaching the local farmers more productive techniques.

This rich agricultural area once benefited those engaged in illegal activities: Santa Cruz was a banking center for the Colombian-Bolivian cocaine trade in the late 1970s and early 1980s, although the region no longer produces cocaine.

See the Basilica Menor de San Lorenzo (visited by the late Pope John Paul in 1988) and its museum (rare ecclesiastical garments and colonial-era silver vessels), the zoo and the Casa de la Cultura Museum (native crafts and art). Relax in Arenal Park (which has an interesting Ethno-Folkloric Museum) or the central plaza (Plaza 24 de Septiembre). Until very recently, three-toed sloths could be seen in the eucalyptus trees that shade the plaza.

Day trips can be made to the pre-Incan ruins at Samaipata. A wonderful five-day excursion to the region east of Santa Cruz called the Chiquitania is also a highlight. There the gorgeous colonial lost-in-time towns of San Xavier, Concepcion, and San Jose de Chiquitos and others have restored churches that date from the Jesuit missions of the late 1600s. There is also the aquatic wonderland of the Pantanal to explore, and the border with Brazil is nearby.

For local entertainment, the Rio Pirai and its adjacent recreation area 10 minutes from the city center is the place to go on weekends. The atmosphere along this shallow river is that of a beach party. Buying food from kiosks, cruising the beach and racing dune buggies are all part of the fun. To really be included, however, you absolutely need to go with a native of Santa Cruz. Santa Cruz is 350 mi/550 km southeast of La Paz.

Overview

Introduction

Located 65 mi/105 km south of San Francisco, Santa Cruz is in many ways the quintessential California town, combining a laid-back counterculture atmosphere with plenty of shore activities and, of course, surfing. The historic boardwalk contains one of the oldest amusement-park areas on the West Coast. One of its roller coasters is a National Historic Landmark, but the park also includes a state-of-the-art coaster and an amusement area with special effects and robotics.

The prominence of surfing in Santa Cruz can be judged by the statue the city erected to celebrate the sport. There are several places along the coast to shoot the curls (or watch others do it). Steamer's Lane, off Lighthouse Field State Beach, is the town's most famous spot, and Cowell Beach and Manresa State Beach are also popular.

Whether you can hang 10 or not, you'll enjoy the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, contained in a lighthouse off West Cliff Drive, near Lighthouse Field State Beach. It covers the sport from its infancy in the 1930s, explaining changes in board technology and chronicling the stars of the surfing world. Phone 831-420-6289. http://www.santacruzsurfingmuseum.org.

Of course, the town's numerous beaches can be used for activities aside from surfing. You could, for instance, hang out on the beach. There are also fishing and swimming for those who want to be active, and sailboat cruises for viewing the beach from the bay.

There's a lot of shoreline to choose from in the Santa Cruz area, so you should be able to find a beach to fit your activities and temperament. We like Natural Bridges State Beach for the monarch butterflies that congregate there October-March. For a more upscale beach-town experience, you can drive 6 mi/9 km to enjoy Capitola's beaches and shops. This delightful resort village has some exceptional bed-and-breakfast inns and shorefront fine-dining restaurants.

The University of California at Santa Cruz campus is located in the hills overlooking the town and bay. The campus' modern architecture blends impressively with the redwood-forest surroundings. http://www.ucsc.edu.

If you're in Santa Cruz between December and March, don't miss the chance to see the elephant seals bellow, snort and frolic during breeding season at Ano Nuevo State Reserve in Pescadero, about 20 mi/32 km north of the city. Guided walks along the dunes area of the reserve are available by reservation only—make your plans at least a month in advance because the walking tours are very popular. The reserve is one of only two mainland seal-breeding colonies in the world. Because the state began limiting access to the area in the 1970s, the seal population has grown from only 35 to more than 3,000 animals. Phone 650-879-2025. http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=523.

Another must-see near Santa Cruz is one of the area's redwood parks—most notably Big Basin Redwood State Park, a hiker's park about 25 mi/40 km up-canyon from Santa Cruz. (It was California's first state park.) Another good spot for inspirational hiking is nearby Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park.

A historic narrow-gauge railway, the Roaring Camp and Big Trees Railroad, carries sightseers from Felton to the beach in Santa Cruz through Roaring Camp. Their Redwood Forest Steam Train goes from Roaring Camp to Bear Mountain and back. http://www.roaringcamp.com.

Overview

Introduction

With the largest port on La Palma Island, Santa Cruz de la Palma (often called, confusingly, La Palma) is a popular destination, and for good reason. Visitors to the city enjoy the cobblestoned streets and delicately beautiful Spanish colonial mansions, as well as the quirky shops and abundance of lush green foliage.

Don't miss the chance to see one the world's largest volcanic craters, Caldera de Taburiente, which measures 17.5 mi/28 km across and is home to many rare plant and animal species.

Location

The town is easily explored on foot, and cruise ship visitors need only walk five minutes along the promenade to reach the town's lovely center, Plaza de Espana. Most cruise lines offer shuttles to transport visitors from the ship to the port entrance.

From the port, ferries offer connections to Cadiz, Tenerife and the other islands in the Canary Island archipelago.

Overview

Introduction

A stop on Santa Cruz Island is often the highlight of visits to the Galapagos because it is the place to see giant tortoises, both in the wild and in captivity. At the Charles Darwin Research Station, visitors can observe baby tortoises being bred for release on their native islands. The station's most famous resident, Lonesome George, died in June 2012 at around 100 years old. George was the last known member of the Isla Pinta subspecies.

In addition to the tortoises, the station has a land iguana repatriation project. There are also walkways where visitors can see native flora as well as land birds, including some of Darwin's famous finches. There's a park information center, a small museum where slideshows are presented in several languages and an excellent gift shop. Most research work happens on the various islands and not at the station itself.

At the Highlands, as the center of the island is known, visitors can view the giant tortoises in the wild. A small bus or hired taxi takes visitors to a farm in the Highlands, the closest thing to a rain forest on the islands, where dozens of these giant creatures live amid marshy bogs and dense undergrowth. How easy the lumbering creatures are to spot often depends on the weather and time of day.

As part of a visit to a tortoise farm, travelers usually get a chance to see other parts of the Highlands. Two large craters, called Los Gemelos, are visible from the main road; they were formed by the sinking of magma chambers. A long cave that is actually a lava tube can also be explored. (Most farms provide flashlights.)

The largest town in the islands, Puerto Ayora, is the headquarters of the Galapagos National Park and the site of the Charles Darwin Research Station. Dozens of cruise ships and boats anchor in the town's harbor, which is one of the departure points for those who arrive by plane at the Baltra Island airport, just north of Santa Cruz.

Puerto Ayora has the feel of an island resort, with open-air restaurants, small hotels and a laid-back pace. Sitting at San Francisco Park, visitors can watch waves rolling in, blue-footed boobies plunging into the sea, colorful crabs squaring off on volcanic rocks and marine iguanas feeding on algae. Puerto Ayora has grown significantly as Ecuadorians have relocated there to take advantage of the tourism business. One of the most developed towns in the island chain, it has about 12,000 residents and a host of domesticated and wild animals that are nonnative to the islands.

Overview

Introduction

These remote and rarely visited small islands (mostly coral atolls) offer superlative ocean, lagoon and beach swimming, dinghy and canoe rides, shopping for local handicrafts (masks and wood carvings) and small, basic accommodations (government rest houses). A great place to relax, they're in Temotu Province (reached primarily by air from Honiara to Santa Cruz Island, which has accommodations).

The provincial capital, Lata, on Santa Cruz, overlooks Graciosa Bay, where Spanish explorer Mendana tried to establish a settlement in 1595 on his second expedition to the Solomons. (The Spaniard died of malaria within a month and the survivors abandoned the area for the Philippines.) A road along the bay from Lata to the site of the Spanish camp passes many small villages and makes an excellent day hike.

These islands aren't for everyone—they're very isolated and primitive—but we really enjoyed our four nights there. 490 mi/790 km southeast of Guadalcanal.


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