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Overview

Introduction

Syria is home to some of the best historical sites in the world. The country is an absolute treasure trove for those interested in ancient history, archaeology, medieval urban planning and architecture, or the culture of the Middle East. And with a government and public eager to welcome both independent and group travelers, Syria is constantly improving its infrastructure and amenities. In major tourist areas, small, clean hotels are opening alongside luxury establishments. Transportation is well organized and comfortable, and good food and service have become fairly commonplace.

The problem is that politics sometimes get in the way. When a bomb explodes in Jerusalem or the political tensions escalate in Iraq, Syria's tourism may suffer—perhaps unfairly, because the events don't really affect the safety of travelers there. In spite of decades of regional tensions, violence toward tourists is practically unheard of in Syria.

Political and security concerns aside, traditional and modern life in Syria have blended: Clubs, bars and cafes have sprouted near historic sites in Damascus and Aleppo. It's very common to see wizened old men in traditional kaffiyehs talking with young men in T-shirts or to spot older women in chadors mingling with young women in short skirts. The odd juxtapositions actually add to the country's allure.

Geography

Syria can be divided into four regions: the coastal strip in the west (on the east coast of the Mediterranean, between Turkey in the north and Lebanon in the south); two narrow mountain ranges (near the coast and along the border with Lebanon); the fertile plains (around Damascus, Homs, Hama and Aleppo); and the hot, dry deserts (to the southeast).

History

The Mesopotamians first occupied the region in 2300 BC. Since then, Syria has been controlled by Assyrians, Babylonians, Semitic Amorites, Persians, Phoenicians, Macedonians, Romans, Arabs, Crusaders and Turks—each has left its fingerprints for the modern world to read. The Assyrians demonstrated the first widespread and practical use of the wheel (on war chariots); the Phoenicians, trading throughout the Mediterranean, bequeathed the alphabet to the Greeks and Romans; and the Crusaders built a chain of castles that can still be admired.

Modern Syria emerged in the early 20th century. After Damascus (and the Ottoman Empire) fell to the British at the end of World War I, Prince Faisal, a wartime ally of the British (and future king of Iraq), formed the independent Arab Kingdom of Syria in 1920. Soon afterward, the French marched in and kept Syria as a protectorate until 1941. In the 1960s, Syria joined Egypt in the United Arab Republic (the two stars in Syria's flag are from that period), but the union soon fell apart and the Syrian Arab Republic was born.

For years, Syria allied itself with the Soviet Union. Since the collapse of the U.S.S.R., Syria's relations with the U.S. and Europe have fluctuated. Syria's government is feeling pressure from a small but growing private sector to develop the economy—and tourism would certainly aid that effort. Although Syria's economy is currently held together by revenue from oil production, the country's oil reserves are expected to run dry within the next few decades.

The formidable President Hafez al-Assad ruled Syria with an iron fist for 30 years until his death in 2000. He tolerated no dissent: In 1982, the Syrian army suppressed an uprising by the fundamentalist Muslim Brotherhood by killing some 20,000 townspeople in Hama. Now that the presidency has been passed on to his son, Bashar Assad, there has been much speculation about the course the country will take and how it will affect regional politics.

Although the country has undergone some reform and feels more open these days, it still faces serious political and economic challenges. However, in 2008, officials from both Syria and Lebanon signed a historic agreement establishing diplomatic relations between the countries for the first time.

Snapshot

Syria's highlights include Palmyra; the medieval architecture in the Old Cities of Damascus and Aleppo; archaeological sites from the Iron Age, and Roman and Byzantine times; Crusade-era castles, in particular the Krac Des Chevaliers; cultural attractions; and desert scenery.

Syria is a good travel destination for those who are interested in Middle Eastern culture and ancient history (biblical, in particular) and who aren't discouraged by the current political situation. It's not for travelers who are unable to tolerate a fair amount of dust, dirt and litter.

Potpourri

Epics passed down through the generations by hakawatis (storytellers) were once very popular in the souks and coffeehouses throughout the southern Mediterranean. However, the appearance of radios in Syria's street cafes has threatened the ancient tradition of storytelling—only a handful of hakawatis still practice the art, mostly in Damascus.

During Christmas, Syrian Christian carolers perform in the winding alleyways in Damascus' Old City.

Although many Syrians still speak French (and a knowledge of that language may prove useful), English is becoming the most-popular second language.

There are relatively few Bedouins who remain nomadic in Syria.

Eastern Syria is primarily desert, though the Euphrates Dam project has opened up new lands for cultivation. Syria is one of a few Arab nations that has enough arable land to feed its people.

You'll undoubtedly hear the word malesh more than once. It means "it doesn't matter."


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