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Overview

Introduction

Rarotonga is the only island other than Aitutaki in the Cook Islands with developed tourist facilities. It is rather small (67 sq mi/108 sq km) and a little crowded.

Avarua, the main town, is compact and easy to see on foot—it's laid out between the two harbors.

A good way to get oriented is to take a day and bicycle or motorbike along the 20-mi/32-km flat road circling the island. There are a few potholes, but it's a pleasant trip and you can really see, feel, smell and hear the island. You will never be far from a cold drink, meal or hotel. If you're in reasonably good physical condition, take the Cross-Island Track.

Also visit Ngatangilia harbor (where the Polynesians left for New Zealand) and the Cook Islands Christian Church in the town of Matavera (blue limestone walls and a cemetery with concrete graves—go to a Sunday service to hear beautiful singing).

Other destinations include the Cook Islands Cultural Village near Arorangi, the National Cultural Center and the Cook Island Museum (both in Avarua), the Philatelic Bureau (stamps) and Polynesian ceremonial sites.

It's also fun to take a ride on a glass-bottomed boat and to swim at Muri Lagoon (allow about two hours). Muri has one of the best beaches, in the southeast part of the island near the Sailing Club, although Titikaveka on the southeastern coast is better.

Overview

Introduction

Tonga is the last Polynesian kingdom: It was never colonized by a European power. This tiny South Pacific island nation has strong traditions and, until his death in September 2006, had a larger-than-life king who ruled for 41 years.

Tonga is less Westernized and less modernized than many of its Polynesian neighbors—which is good news for travelers in search of an authentic South Pacific experience. The faka Tonga (Tongan way), which emphasizes hospitality and gift giving, still holds sway, and the Tongan people are among the friendliest in the South Seas.

For such a small place, Tonga has a lot to offer—fascinating historical sites, beautiful coral reefs and reasonable prices. What these islands don't offer is an array of luxurious resorts. But Tonga is no longer off the beaten path. With airlines offering more flights to the island nation and more tour operators including it in their Polynesian itineraries, it's easier for travelers to get there—which is a mixed blessing, of course, for those seeking a completely authentic experience. On Tongatapu and Vava'u, the only islands with tourist accommodation and facilities, you definitely won't be alone in your quest for the unspoiled tropics.

Geography

Tonga is a collection of 169 volcanic and coral islands 1,500 mi/2,400 km north of New Zealand, just west of the International Date Line. The country contains four main island groups: Tongatapu (to the south), Ha'apai (roughly in the center), Vava'u (to the north) and the Niuas (to the extreme north). Only 40 of the islands are inhabited.

History

Polynesians inhabited Tonga in the fifth century BC, but the existence of the islands was not reported in Europe until 1643 (Dutchman Abel Tasman brought the news). British Captain Jason Cook called them the "Friendly Islands" when he first visited in 1773. He was apparently unaware of the debate among local chiefs as to who should have the honor of attacking his fleet and devouring him and all his sailors.

British Wesleyan missionaries converted the Tongan chief to Christianity in the mid-1800s, and the islands, while retaining much of their Polynesian heritage, took their new religion seriously: By royal decree, the Sabbath must be observed forever by all, and modern-day Tonga literally closes down on Sunday (except for hotel services).

The British influence at the time was so great that the chief changed his name from Taufa'ahau to George and asked for a treaty of friendship and protection with Great Britain. While it still retains close ties with the U.K., Tonga did not renew the treaty in 1970, at which time it became a fully independent nation.

Tonga today is a constitutional monarchy, so to speak. A majority of the 30-seat Legislative Assembly is made up of nobles (most of them related to the king), with only nine elected by the commoners, who make up more than 90% of the population. The king appoints a Privy Council, which has more practical power than the assembly. It's not far-fetched to say that the king and his family control just about everything in Tonga.

The royal family faces considerable pressure to give the commoners more say in the government. Pro-democracy protests have resulted in the creation of opposition political parties. When a strike by civil servants paralyzed Tonga for six weeks in 2005, the royals reacted by raising government pay, then announcing a reduction in government jobs. King Taufa'ahau Tupou IV's younger son stepped aside as prime minister, opening the way for a commoner to hold the post.

King Taufa'ahau Tupou V, raised local eyebrows by suggesting that things would change after he assumed the throne. Following the death of his father, King Taufa'ahau Tupou IV, in September 2006, speculation was that he would face a strong push for more democracy.

In March 2012, King Tupou V died in March 2012 and was succeeded in by his brother, Aho'eitu Tupou VI.

Snapshot

Tonga's chief attractions are its friendly people, historical sites, beautiful coral reefs, unspoiled beaches, dramatic blowholes, scuba diving, deep-sea fishing, whale-watching, fruit-bat colonies, relaxation, charter yachts and sailing.

Tonga is a wonderful place to go if you are looking for authentic Polynesian islands that are not overdeveloped with tourist resorts. Don't go to Tonga if you prefer deluxe accommodations or varied nightlife and shopping.

Potpourri

When rain began to fall during the coronation parade for Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, Tonga's Queen Salote, one of the visiting royals, refused to cover her open carriage, since by Tongan custom, to cover her head would have been disrespectful to her fellow monarch. The gesture won worldwide praise and admiration.

Tonga's traditional architectural structure is the fale, a thatched hut made of coconut fronds, palm leaves and peeled coconut logs.

Niuafo'ou is also known as Tin Can Island because mail was once sealed in biscuit tins and carried by swimming mailmen.

King Taufa'ahau Tupou IV, the Tongan monarch who died in September 2006, was once certified as the world's heaviest head of state (a mere 461 lb/210 kg). He later slimmed down to a svelte 275 lb/125 kg.

The woven sash (taovalo) worn around the waist of Tongans is a sign of respect.

Tongans have great smiles and tend to flash them a lot. Be sure to smile back.

Between July and October, humpback whales swim to Tonga from Antarctica to bear their young. Subsistence shore whaling was practiced in Tonga until 1979, but in recent years, whale-watching has become a key element to Tonga's tourism industry.

Tonga's largest exports by far are pumpkins and squash, which are air freighted to Japan in November and December.

If you're in Tonga in the first part of June, watch all the pomp and ceremony when Parliament opens.

Location

Cruise ships dock at Queen Salote Wharf, about 1 mi/2 km east of the commercial center of Nuku'alofa, the capital. The wharf lacks a welcoming terminal, but locals gather to sing, stage a cultural show and sell handicrafts. Restaurants are within walking distance, and buses shuttle passengers to Taufa'ahau Road, the main drag.



Shore Excursions

Half- and full-day sightseeing bus tours of Tongatapu Island usually are available, as well as excursions by tender to Royal Sunset and Fafa, two small resorts on islets off the town, where passengers can swim, snorkel and dive.

Overview

Introduction

Found 64 mi/103 km from Taupo, this is the oldest of New Zealand's national parks and a dual UNESCO World Heritage area, recognized for its unique volcanic features and Maori spiritual significance. The area was also immortalized as Mordor in the Lord of the Rings trilogy. The park is dominated by three volcanoes: Ruapehu (depicted as Mount Doom), Tongariro, and Ngauruhoe.

Around these peaks lie hot springs, emerald lakes and lush forest. All these views and more can be taken in along the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, which is consistently rated the best one-day trek in New Zealand. Many other hikes, both long and short, can be found throughout the park, although a guided tour may be a better option on multiday hikes.

In winter skiers flock to Ruapehu's slopes. The Tongariro River offers ample fly-fishing opportunities, while its rapids lend themselves to white-water rafting.

Overview

Introduction

Two-thirds of the country's population live on Tongatapu, the largest island. First-time visitors will want to take one of the sightseeing tours to get an overall look at this flat but beautiful island. It's also quite possible to tour the island by rental car; the Tonga Visitors Bureau has maps.

The capital, Nuku'alofa, sits beside a lovely lagoon and is small enough to be seen on foot. It's a scruffy but charming little town, where you'll enjoy strolling along the scenic harbor. Among the sights in town are the Talamahu Market, Parliament building (it resembles a small early-1900s country schoolhouse), the Victorian Royal Palace and the Tongan National Center, one of the best craft and cultural centers in the South Pacific. Don't miss the demonstrations of making tapa, the traditional bark cloth—the Tongans excel in this difficult and time-consuming craft. Reserve some time for shopping.

The island offers intriguing historical sites unique in Polynesia. The 13th-century Ha'amonga Trilithon, about 20 mi/30 km east of Nuku'alofa, is made up of 16-ft/3-m coral columns, with a huge stone connecting the tops. It's vaguely reminiscent of Stonehenge, both in looks and assumed usage—it's thought to be a solar calendar (according to the king, who once climbed up there, various notches on top point directly to the rising sun on the shortest day of the year). Also on Tongatapu (about 13 mi/21 km east of Nuku'alofa) you'll find the ninth-century Langi—terraced tombs of the ancient chiefs rising as high as 12 ft/4 m.

The island offers diverse and intriguing natural sights as well. In the Kolovai area, 11 mi/18 km west of Nuku'alofa, scan the trees for the sacred "flying foxes." They're actually large but harmless fruit bats now protected by the royal family (their population of about 600 and their rain-forest habitat is threatened). There are several caves on the island, including Hina's Caves, which are decorated with religious statues and candles. There are deep, clear freshwater pools in the caves where you can swim among the stalagmites—it's wise to take a waterproof flashlight.

Oholei Beach is also great for swimming (it's about 12 mi/20 km from town, near the airport). The area called Mu'a is pretty (it's east of town near the tombs, where Captain Cook landed on his 1777 visit to the islands), and the blowholes at Houma shoot water more than 60 ft/18 m into the air under the right conditions (south of Nuku'alofa, along the cliffs). This is a beautiful spot to picnic and explore. We recommend the Hufangalupe drive along the ocean to see the natural bridge, spectacular scenery and beaches. If you're interested in snorkeling, definitely visit Ha'atafu Beach, a marine reserve at the westernmost point of the island, where visibility is superb.

Pangaimotu, 'Atata and Fafa are three islets just off the harbor, reached easily by boat for day trips (recommended for Sundays, when everything is closed). Offering excellent beaches, snorkeling, windsurfing and coral viewing, the islands have adequate accommodations and good restaurants.


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