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Overview

Introduction

Poet Robert Service once referred to Canada's Yukon Territory as "that raw-ribbed wild that abhors all life." The Yukon is a tamer place than it was in Service's lifetime—the lawlessness of the gold-rush days has faded, and a few refined towns now dot the map. But no one would dispute that this Canadian territory contains some of the most majestic wilderness on the North American continent.

This is a raw, isolated land—many places remain literally untouched. Clear blue lakes, mountains, glaciers and silence stretch for miles/kilometers, and both the caribou and the bears outnumber the people. During winter, the green, red and blue northern lights flicker overhead.

Most visitors just pass through this territory as they go from British Columbia to Alaska (or from Alaska's panhandle to the interior of the state). This is unfortunate, because they miss a chance to see great scenery and to relive the rugged life of the gold rush—either in relatively comfortable and fascinating tours of the region or in high-adventure outings that will challenge even the most experienced outdoor enthusiast. Besides scenic hiking and driving, the territory offers white-water rafting, dogsledding, mountain biking, snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, canoeing and mountaineering.

Most visitors miss something else, too—the territory's rich First Nations (aboriginal) traditions. Approximately one-fifth of the Yukon's population is First Nations, and the majority of these people belong to one of the Athabascan or Tlingit language families: Gwitchin, Han, Northern Tutchone, Southern Tutchone, Kaska, Tagish, Upper Tanana and Tlingit. Historically they hunted caribou, moose and sheep, but they used any animal resource available (lynx, snow hares, salmon, beavers). Many Yukon First Nations people continue to practice subsistence hunting, fishing and trapping today.

Geography

The Yukon's most dramatic landscapes are its mountains—including Canada's highest summits—and broad river valleys. Most of the territory is a plateau, however, ranging between 2,500 ft/760 m and 4,000 ft/1,220 m above sea level. The Yukon River (Yukon means "great river" in the Athabascan Gwitchin language) slashes through the heart of the territory. It rises near the Pacific Ocean and flows north and west, to and through the U.S. state of Alaska, where it empties into the Bering Sea, a route of 2,000 mi/3,200 km.

History

It was not until the 1840s that members of the Hudson's Bay Company explored the Yukon in any detail. Gold miners pushed into the territory beginning in the 1870s, and in 1896, a major strike was made near the Klondike River, initiating the gold rush. About US$125 million in gold was taken out of the area over the next 10 years.

Prospectors from around the world flooded into the region in hopes of getting rich quick, though many found only backbreaking toil and long, cold winters. The influx of miners developed the Yukon, however: Dawson City became the thriving center of the mining activity, and Whitehorse was connected to the Alaskan coast by rail.

The rush had a short life. Once the easily accessible placer gold had played out, the Yukon's population plummeted. At the height of the rush, Dawson City was the largest western city north of San Francisco: It had 38,000 residents. Just 20 years later, only 975 people called it home. During World War II, the Yukon experienced another brief period of growth as the Alaska Highway and other war-related projects were introduced.

Mining for gold and other minerals has continued since the 1900s, though it is now carried out by large companies using heavy industrial equipment. Government and tourism are the major employers. Visitors to the territory are amazed by the wealth of aboriginal culture that has been preserved. In recent years, Yukon First Nations have pursued land claims and the majority have successfully regained powers of self-government, as well as control of portions of their traditional territory.

Snapshot

The Yukon's main attractions include Arctic wilderness, mountains, lakes, rivers, forests, scenic highways, historic sites, outdoor recreation, wildlife and handicrafts.

The territory will appeal most to those travelers who seek exotic and occasionally rugged adventure in a remote, mountainous location. Those who insist on urban recreation (organized entertainment, fine restaurants, deluxe accommodations) or inexpensive wilderness vacations will have to look elsewhere.

Potpourri

Unlike most of the world's locations, the Yukon's population was greater at the turn of the 20th century than it was at the beginning of the 21st century.

The northern lights (aurora borealis) are visible throughout the Yukon November-March. First Nations legends say the lights represent ancestors and that whistling at them sends messages of remembrance.

More than 20% of the Yukon's inhabitants are aboriginal. They are from two clans: Crow and Wolf. Check with local authorities to see if aboriginal celebrations (such as the Commissioner's Potlatch, Moosehide Gathering, stick gambling or hand game competitions) are taking place during your visit.

In hopes of alleviating shortages in the gold-rush boom towns, Canadian officials required each person entering the country through the Chilkoot Pass to transport 2,000 lbs/900 kg of provisions. Because horses and mules were unable to ascend the steep trail, the prospectors hauled the goods themselves—sometimes making as many as 50 trips through the pass. You can hike the same route today: It's a challenging 34-mi/55-km hike from Dyea, Alaska, to Bennett, British Columbia.

The 420 mi/675 km Dempster Highway is the only public road in Canada that crosses the Arctic Circle. Car companies have used the highway for testing cars in extreme temperatures.

The southwestern Yukon has the world's largest concentration of grizzly bears and the largest number of Dall sheep in the world.

The Canadian five-dollar bill once featured artwork of Otter Falls, which can be reached via the Alaska Highway, between Whitehorse and Haines Junction.

The Yukon is a popular location for films, television shows and commercials that feature settings with snow and wilderness. At one time, Robin Williams, Woody Harrelson and Holly Hunter were all in Whitehorse to shoot a movie called The Big White. It went straight to video.


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