The morning before boarding UnCruise Adventures’ Safari Voyager, I woke up well before my 4:30 am alarm from sheer excitement. By 5:00 am I was on a local bus out of San José del Cabo, watching the dark, rugged outline of the Baja California Peninsula slip past the window on the way to La Paz and an unforgettable date with whale sharks.
Swimming with 7-Meter Giants in La Paz
La Paz was bustling, and morning traffic made timing tight. An Uber sprint later, with just ten minutes to spare, I was wriggling into a wetsuit on the dock. The marina thrummed with dive boats firing up engines and the sharp smell of outboard exhaust hanging in the crisp morning air.
The shallow bay water that morning was a balmy 75°F, making entering the sea feel more like slipping into a warm bath than plunging into the wild Pacific. My dominant sensation as I slid over the skiff’s gunwale was pure awe. While I knew whale sharks are docile filter-feeders, entering the water beside an animal longer than a bus commands immediate reverence.
We encountered three whale sharks in total. The second was over seven meters (23 feet) long — a magnificent gentle giant patterned with pale white star-like spots and delicate transverse bands across its immense back. Its tail movement was so rhythmic, unhurried, and graceful that I barely had to kick my fins, simply holding my position between its eye and primary dorsal fin to match its ancient cadence.
Gliding side-by-side with a 23-foot whale shark in the warm, protected waters of La Paz Bay.
Distinctive spotted celestial markings and gentle swimming rhythm of the Sea of Cortez whale shark.
“A Horse With No Name” & The Rhythm of the Sea of Cortez
I hum when I snorkel. It’s an involuntary subconscious habit. While floating in the crystalline jade waters of the Sea of Cortez on the final days of our voyage, my underwater soundtrack was America’s classic anthem “A Horse With No Name.” As it turned out, the song was the ultimate soundtrack for our Baja expedition: “plants and birds and rocks and things” surrounded by an ocean meeting the desert.
We had escaped near-freezing Canadian spring weather for Baja’s reliable 80-degree sun. Sailing on the 66-guest Safari Voyager, we traveled close to 900 nautical miles, tracing an expansive looping route from La Paz north to the wild, untouched shores of Isla Ángel de la Guarda and back.
The scale of the Baja Peninsula is staggering — a 775-mile spine of arid volcanic mountain ranges stretching from the border down to Land’s End at Cabo San Lucas. Tucked between this peninsula and mainland Mexico lies the Sea of Cortez, celebrated by UNESCO for its ecological richness where dramatic crimson bluffs crash directly into brilliant turquoise water.
“Our itinerary is a plan from which to deviate. While we have a route on paper, wildlife and weather will be our true captains.”
— Captain Shep, Master of the Safari Voyager
Life Aboard Safari Voyager: 66-Guest Intimacy & True Expedition Freedom
Our cabin on Deck Three was masterfully designed for expedition comfort — thoughtful storage, deep drawers, and hooks for drybags and snorkel gear. A promenade walking track encircles Deck Three, with a humorous warning sign on each cabin door reminding guests to open cautiously lest an enthusiastic morning walker stroll by.
The Deck Three lounge served as our communal living room: natural history lectures with marine biologists, evening briefings over craft cocktails, animated recaps of what each skiff had spotted, and spontaneous games of Mano Tazo against a backdrop of panoramic windows framing fiery desert sunsets.
Captain Shep’s “plan from which to deviate” proved itself constantly. One breezy morning during a planned all-day kayak expedition, the wind picked up across the channel. Rather than forcing an exposed crossing, our guides consulted the bridge, hugged the lee of the cliffs, and within an hour, Captain Shep personally arrived in a Zodiac skiff to escort us into a sheltered turquoise cove with holding ground for the anchor. That nimble responsiveness is what sets small-ship expedition cruising apart from rigid mega-ship itineraries.
The 66-guest Safari Voyager resting at quiet anchorage in an uninhabited Baja desert inlet.
UnCruise CEO Captain Dan Blanchard leading guests in an impromptu remote beach cleanup.
Desert Ridge Climbs & Bahía Agua Verde Mule Rancheros
Every day brought active land exploration. UnCruise tailors its hikes into three distinct difficulty levels: Eco-Meander, Moderate, and Hard Charger. My 13-year-old son made it his personal mission to conquer every Hard Charger ridge scramble available, scaling steep volcanic bluffs for sweeping panoramas across the Gulf.
On one high cliff overlooking the bay, I attempted a wide panoramic photograph. My son stood grinning at one edge of the frame, then sprinted behind my back as I panned, popping up at the far end of the horizon — appearing twice in a single photo against Baja’s endless desert skyline!
In Bahía Agua Verde, we encountered a literal “horse with no name” moment. Along the pristine beach, local Mexican rancheros waited with patient burros and mules to guide guests into green-hemmed desert canyons. It provided an authentic glimpse into traditional rural Baja life far beyond resort gates.
Panoramic views from a Hard Charger ridge climb overlooking the pristine desert bays of Baja.
Local rancheros and burros awaiting adventurous trail riders at Bahía Agua Verde.
The Aquarium of the World: Snorkeling Los Islotes with 400+ Sea Lions
Jacques Cousteau famously christened the Sea of Cortez “The Aquarium of the World,” and our time in the water proved why that title has endured.
The undisputed pinnacle of the voyage was Los Islotes — a rocky islet home to a thriving colony of more than 400 California sea lions. Slipping into the water, we were instantly greeted by acrobatic juvenile pups. Highly inquisitive and completely fearless, they swirled around our masks, blew underwater bubbles, and playfully tugged at our fins. One particularly spirited pup zoomed past and gave a gentle nip at my neoprene hood — an unforgettable encounter that had me laughing into my snorkel.
Our expedition guide Erika (affectionately known as “Keka”) worked wonders with my wife, who had previously felt apprehension in deep open water. With infinite patience and expert coaching, Keka turned her hesitation into utter delight. By mid-trip, she was the first to dive in at every snorkel stop — and is now planning her SCUBA certification!
A curious, playful sea lion pup somersaulting underwater at the famous Los Islotes marine sanctuary.
Farm-to-Table Cuisine & Conservation Leadership
Back onboard, the culinary experience was exceptional. UnCruise prioritizes genuine farm-to-table sourcing, serving fresh regional produce and sustainable seafood caught by local Baja fishermen. Two standout dishes remain etched in my memory: a pristine yellowfin tuna poke bowl with fish caught hours earlier, and an authentic, slow-simmered ropa vieja. Because the ship carries a dedicated pastry chef, every meal featured artisan warm breads and decadent desserts.
What made this expedition truly unforgettable was having UnCruise owner and CEO Captain Dan Blanchard and Director of Sales Julie Quarry sailing alongside us. Rather than observing from afar, Captain Dan spent his shore landings with a burlap sack in hand, leading guests and crew in cleaning storm debris from wild beaches. Watching a CEO, my teenage son, and fellow guests quietly comb a remote shoreline together revealed more about UnCruise’s conservation ethos than any corporate mission statement ever could.
Experience Baja California & The Sea of Cortez with Vincent Vacations
Ready to swim with whale sharks, play with sea lions, and explore Mexico’s wild desert waters by boutique expedition ship? Connect with our luxury small-ship specialists to secure exclusive stateroom perks and tailor-made Mexico land extensions.
Reviewed by Karl Kannstadter
Karl is an expedition cruise specialist and adventure travel expert with Vincent Vacations. He specializes in active small-ship voyages, polar expeditions, and immersive wilderness journeys worldwide for adventurous families and discerning travelers.