Kimberley Kaleidoscope

Underwear Shopping in Perth & The Generosity of Strangers

Losing your checked bag is never fun. Arriving at an interim destination after three long-haul flights and 30 hours of travel, only to learn that your luggage might not catch up for a 10-day expedition cruise, is downright maddening. With my 10-year-old son in tow, we got busy buying toothbrushes and underwear in Perth before boarding our flight north to Broome.

While pacing through Perth airport, wondering what—if anything—we would be able to buy in the tiny outback town of Broome, a big, bearded Australian gentleman approached us:

He led us straight to an airport surf shop, picked out flip-flop sandals in our sizes, walked up to the register, paid for them on the spot, and handed them to us: “There ya go Mate. All set for the Kimberley.” Before we could properly thank him, he vanished into the terminal!

When we finally boarded the National Geographic Orion in Broome, that legendary Australian hospitality continued. The Hotel Director sought us out immediately, offering complimentary laundry service for the entirety of our voyage. Then, a fellow passenger handed me a brand-new Lindblad branded long-sleeve expedition shirt: “If this fits you, keep it. Bought it on my last trip and it’s too big.” It fit perfectly, and I wore it proudly across the Kimberley!

We’re Not in Canada Anymore: The Staggering Scale of Western Australia

Western Australia comprises 33% of the entire Australian continent. Both Texas and Alaska combined can fit comfortably within its borders. Yet the state is home to roughly three million people, with 90% residing in and around the capital of Perth. That leaves just 300,000 residents scattered across an area the size of 3.6 Texases!

Excluding embarkation in Broome and debarkation in Darwin, we did not see a single road, car, truck, power line, marina, or building for eight days. The sense of raw isolation is absolute, therapeutic, and deeply humbling.

Boundless coastal wilderness along Western Australia’s northwest frontier.

Ancient river gorges carved through billions of years of geological history.

National Geographic Orion: A Floating Base Camp Par Excellence

The National Geographic Orion is an expedition marvel. Accommodating just over 100 guests, the vessel delivers an intimate, ultra-luxurious expedition atmosphere. Spacious staterooms and suites feature large picture windows and private balconies, ensuring ever-changing panoramic views of sandstone escarpments.

The observation lounge and library serve as vibrant communal gathering points where guests mingle, review the day’s wildlife sightings, and attend masterclasses hosted by an extraordinary multidisciplinary expedition team: marine biologists, ornithologists, historians, an onboard National Geographic photographer, and certified photo instructors.

Dining aboard the Orion is a gastronomic highlight. The executive culinary team crafts regional menus emphasizing fresh Australian seafood, premium meats, and native botanicals, served in the elegant main dining room or al fresco on deck under the southern stars.

Water, Water Everywhere: King George Falls, Horizontal Falls & “Salties”

The Kimberley is defined by colossal hydrology. King George Falls is an undeniable pinnacle—twin cascades plunging over 250 feet (80 meters) straight down vertical ochre cliffs into the deep tidal river gorge below. Taking Zodiacs directly to the mist zone at the base of the thundering falls is an exhilarating rite of passage.

Equally mind-bending is the Horizontal Falls in Talbot Bay. Here, massive 30-foot tides squeeze millions of gallons of seawater through two narrow gaps in the McLarty Range, creating a roaring, horizontal waterfall phenomenon that reverses direction with every tidal cycle. Riding high-powered safari boats through the surging rapids delivers an adrenaline rush unlike anything else on Earth.

Yet, despite all this pristine turquoise water, there is strictly no swimming, no snorkeling, and no kayaking anywhere along the coast. Why?

Zodiac excursions navigating the foot of towering billion-year-old sandstone cliffs.

Prehistoric saltwater crocodiles (“salties”) guarding the tidal estuaries.

Aboriginal Rock Art: 20,000-Year-Old Windows to the Past

Beyond its geological grandeur, the Kimberley is a living spiritual landscape. Ancient rock art galleries hidden among rock overhangs and sea caves date back tens of thousands of years.

We explored sacred Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) figures, depicting slender, elegantly ornamented human forms painted with delicate pigments, as well as dramatic Wandjina spirit beings with large haloed heads and solemn, mouthless faces representing supreme cloud and rain spirits.

Led by Indigenous traditional owners and Lindblad’s historians, standing before these sacred artworks—some estimated to be over 20,000 years old—was a deeply humbling experience. It connected us to the oldest continuous living culture on Earth and their unbroken relationship with this extraordinary wilderness.