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Cap-Haitien

Cap-Haitien is often referred to as Le Cap, a commune on the north coast of Haiti. It was once a French colony of Saint Domingue named "Cap-Francais" and "Paris of the Antilles." Cap-Haitien was the monarchy’s capital until ...

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Gonave Island

This large island in the Gulf of Gonave is a destination only for adventurous snorkelers and scuba divers. It is isolated and difficult to reach, and there are no hotels. Beautiful coral reefs and mangroves surround the island. 35 mi/55 km northwest ...

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Jacmel

The charming town of Jacmel (pop. 217,000) on Haiti's south coast has interesting architecture and magnificent beaches. It is a handicraft production center, particularly for papier-mache masks and carved-wood animal figures. There's not a lot to do ...

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Labadee

Sharing the great island of Hispaniola with the neighboring Dominican Republic, Haiti is a fascinating little nation perhaps more African in spirit than any other in the Caribbean. It also boasts some stunning beaches. Screened by vegetation-drape...

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Macaya Peak National Park

This forested park centers on Macaya Peak. We enjoyed a leisurely day touring it, but be aware that Macaya is very difficult to reach by road. Inquire in Port-au-Prince about the rental of four-wheel-drive vehicles, and don't visit during the rainy s...

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Mirebalais

While there is nothing of note in Mirebalais itself, nearby Saut d'Eau is the site of a beautiful waterfall that is the destination of a mid July pilgrimage for Haitians (the alleged presence of water spirits inspires fantastic voodoo ceremonies). A ...

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Morne La Visite National Park

This mountainous park boasts Pic La Selle, Haiti's tallest mountain. Some of the last native vegetation in the country is found there, as well as parrots and parakeets. The park is located near the town of Seguin. 30 mi/50 km southeast of Port-au-Pri...

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Port Au Prince

What Port-au-Prince lacks in architectural grace, it makes up for with a stunning setting. Steep mountains tower over the city to the south, La Gonâve island lies in a horseshoe bay to the west, and another wall of mountains beyond a rift valley plai...

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Port de Paix

A seldom-visited area in the northwest about 100 mi/160 km northwest of Port au Prince, Port de Paix was called Valparaiso (Valley of Delights) by Columbus. Today, it still has delightful beaches and scenery. (The town is also a big marketplace for u...

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Port-Salut


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Haiti - a poverty-stricken land of urban overpopulation, denuded hillsides and people suffering wounds of civil strife and oppression - is also full of colorful art, fantastic music, cloud forests and an intensely spiritual people whose humor and passion are legendary. The modern world's first black-led republic boasts a unique culture and incredible artistic tradition. The language, dance and music of Haitian people reflect a syncopation between spiritual and material worlds that shouldn't be missed. Vodoo, long misunderstood, is a rich religion smuggled from Africa and hidden among Catholic rituals of European missionaries. Haiti's colonial architecture, all gingerbread and plazas, is alive with the music of Africa. Its fine cuisine, of Caribbean ingredients prepared according to classical French methods, attracts gourmets from the other side of the island. Though human need has torn down much of Haiti's forests and jungles, there is still unspoiled nature ecotourism can preserve. The open-minded adventurer will find a country whose contradictions will linger in mind, heart and spirit.
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Haiti


The word "Haiti" is nearly always followed by the word "voodoo"—largely because voodoo makes such a good metaphor for the country as far as travelers are concerned: Like voodoo, Haiti can seem strange and dangerous on first glance. Once you spend a bit more time with it, however, it emerges as distinctive and vibrant, something you will long remember even if you never become completely comfortable with it.

Which isn't to say that the danger and discomfort aren't real. Anyone thinking about visiting Haiti should understand that it's a land whose wounds from civil strife and the January 2010 earthquake are still very fresh. The Haitian economy is in shambles, poverty and crime are pervasive and its democratic traditions are weak.

Yet beneath the grime and corruption, Haiti can be a charming place. Music, art and the poetic Creole language enrich this otherwise poor nation. Add to that the mysteries of voodoo—an undefined belief system that merges traditional African religion and Catholicism in magic, ceremony and performance art—and you have a culture so rich it validates all the trouble it takes to experience it.

Beyond the quake zone largely centered around Port-au-Prince, visitors will find a tropical atmosphere, open-air markets, some nice beaches and coral reefs, and a beautifully rugged landscape. Be aware that it's a place of frequent delays, poor roads, beggars and power outages—even at luxury hotels. If you move around the country at all, you will encounter evidence of the cruel destitution that afflicts the majority of Haitians.

The majority of Haiti’s tourists are now arriving on Royal Caribbean ships at Labadee, the company's private beach on the northeast coast. As the ships approach, passengers see something they may not have seen anywhere else on their Caribbean cruise: miles and miles of beautiful, undeveloped coastline. No high-rise condos, no commercial ports, nothing but lush, green vegetation and sandy beaches with dramatic mountains in the background.

Haiti has enormous untapped reserves. Its beaches, one-of-a-kind historical sites and a dynamic culture add considerable dimension to a region dotted by islands that often struggle to differentiate themselves.

Geography

Haiti occupies the western third of the island of Hispaniola (the other two-thirds are the Dominican Republic). Except along the coast, it is extremely mountainous. Nearly all of the country was once covered with forest, but the majority of those trees have been cut, leaving a glaring, denuded landscape in many places.

History

The contrast of cruelty and beauty is a longstanding phenomenon in Haiti. Columbus first arrived on the island of Hispaniola in 1492 and was followed by Spanish conquerors, who killed thousands of the native Arawaks while searching for gold. Soon afterward, Spain imported thousands of African slaves to work the plantations. In 1697, possession of the western portion of the island passed over to the French, who continued the harsh treatment of the slaves.

In fact, the French owners were so cruel that Haitian slaves staged a long and ultimately successful revolt, led by Toussaint L'Ouverture. In 1804, the rebels were successful in establishing what is now the second-oldest republic in the Western Hemisphere (after the U.S.) and the first to have abolished slavery. Strong animosity remained between black and mulatto segments of the population, however, and the next century was full of turmoil, with Haiti being ruled by a series of monarchs and dictators.

Since the early 1900s, Haiti has been affected by the growing power of the U.S.: From 1915 to 1934, the country was occupied by U.S. Marines, and beginning in the late 1950s, the U.S. supported the presidency of Francois "Papa Doc" Duvalier. But then Duvalier declared himself Haiti's "president for life" and employed his dreaded security force, the tontons macoutes, to terrorize the population, killing tens of thousands of citizens. When Papa Doc's life term expired in 1971, his son Jean-Claude ("Baby Doc") took the reins until he was deposed in 1986.

In the years since, several elections have been held, but democracy has had a tough go of it. Jean-Bertrand Aristide, who was elected president in 1990, was overthrown a year later, and it took the intervention of the U.S. military in 1994 to restore Aristide to power. Aristide remained at the center of Haiti's turbulent politics, serving multiple terms as president, until a rebellion forced him to resign and flee the country in 2004. His rule was viewed by some as oppressive and corrupt, and neither he nor Haiti's other powerful figures were able to improve the devastated economy. Unemployment is extremely widespread, poverty is rampant, and the country is the poorest in the Western Hemisphere.

Tourism in Haiti had been essentially on hold since 1980, when "Baby Doc" kicked journalists out of the country, making clear he had no need for foreigners who might bear witness to his reign of terror. For subsequent governments, tourism has had low to no priority. Foreigners' vacation plans seemed trivial compared with the problems associated with poverty, hunger and anarchy.

But the island has now experienced a rare period of relative stability, and the U.S. Agency for International Development has taken notice. The tourism sector is one of three beneficiaries of a US$24 million USAID initiative, along with agribusiness and handicrafts.

Snapshot

Beaches and watersports, voodoo culture, African-influenced dance, music and fine arts, folk paintings, historic sites, casinos, nightclubs and shopping are Haiti's main attractions.

Haiti will appeal only to travelers looking for a Caribbean experience that offers challenge and adventure. While beaches, watersports and sun worshipping can be found there, the inconvenience factor is higher than anywhere else in the Caribbean. Visitors must be willing to put up with no small amount of dirt and disorganization to realize Haiti's charms.

Potpourri

The colorful folk artwork produced in Haiti is highly prized by serious art collectors, but still affordable if you buy it in the country. The Haitian style, often called "naive" or "primitive," was developed by untrained artists largely isolated from the rest of the art world. It is truly unique—some of the best you'll find in the Caribbean.

Voodoo is such an integral part of Haitian culture that former President Aristide invited voodoo priests to the presidential palace during his term. It's often said that Haiti is 80% Roman Catholic, but 100% voodoo.

Haiti's status as a poor, ineffectively policed nation has made it a prime trans-shipment point for cocaine flowing toward North America. It's estimated that 15% of all the cocaine consumed in the U.S. passes through Haiti.

The statistics on Haiti are dispiriting to say the least: The country has the lowest life expectancy, lowest per-capita income and lowest literacy rate in the Western Hemisphere.

Wyclef Jean, leader of the U.S. music group the Fugees, was born in Haiti. In addition to his music with the Fugees, he has recorded songs in Creole and released them for play on Haitian radio stations. Needless to say, Jean and the Fugees are extremely popular in Haiti.

The Duvaliers' murderous militia, the tontons macoutes, got its name from a figure in Haitian folklore: Uncle Knapsack (a rough translation) was said to carry off children in the night.

The date of 7 February is often referred to as Haiti's second Independence Day: It's the day that Jean-Claude Duvalier was exiled in 1986 and the day that President Jean-Bertrand Aristide, the country's first freely elected leader of this century, was sworn into office in 1991.

Though Haiti has the highest unemployment rate in the Western Hemisphere (around 70%), its people are known for their work ethic. They were largely responsible for building the Panama Canal and subscribe to the motto often seen on Tap-Taps: Le travail, c'est la dignite (Work is dignity).

Parts of northwestern Haiti are a desertlike land with giant cacti.

Haiti's national anthem, the "Dessalinienne," is named after Haitian general Jean-Jacques Dessalines. French troops on the island surrendered to him, thus guaranteeing Haiti its independence.

If someone in Haiti calls you doux doux (pronounced doo-doo), don't be insulted: It's Creole for sweetheart.




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