CLIA Certified (Cruise Lines International Association)
Vincent Vacations luxury travel advisor Johnnie Herring exploring the wonders of the 7th continent aboard HX Hurtigruten Expeditions' MS Fridtjof Nansen.
By Johnnie Herring
Certified HX Hurtigruten Expedition Specialist"Some trips are vacations... and some are life-altering expeditions that permanently change how you view our planet. Standing on continent number seven, surrounded by thousands of curious penguins, colossal icebergs carved by ancient winds, and breaching humpback whales in mirror-flat bays, is an experience that words can barely hold. Having sailed to Antarctica myself aboard the remarkable MS Fridtjof Nansen, here is my complete, unfiltered, day-by-day expedition walkthrough."
Why HX Expeditions & MS Fridtjof Nansen Set the Gold Standard for Antarctica
When planning a journey to the end of the Earth, who you travel with and what ship you sail on are the single most critical decisions you will make. HX (Hurtigruten Expeditions) has navigated polar waters since 1896, pioneering sustainable exploration for over 130 years.
Sailing on the custom-built MS Fridtjof Nansen—one of the world's most advanced battery-hybrid powered expedition vessels—means you travel into fragile ecosystems with dramatically reduced emissions and silent electric sailing. With state-of-the-art Scandinavian interiors, floor-to-ceiling panoramic observation decks, an expansive interactive Science Center, heated outdoor infinity pools and hot tubs, and world-class Nordic dining at Aune, Fredheim, and Lindstrøm, you never have to sacrifice five-star comfort for wild adventure.
Below is my day-by-day expedition log, from the tango salons and steak dinners of Buenos Aires across the legendary Drake Passage to the breathtaking ice-carved channels of the White Continent.
Days 1 & 2: Pre-Expedition Charm in Buenos Aires — Steaks, Culture & Scones
My Antarctic adventure officially began in Buenos Aires, marking country number 35 on my personal world travel list! After a relaxing afternoon settling in, I kicked off my stay with an incredible dinner at the famous Piegari Carne. The Argentine filet was cooked to absolute perfection—melt-in-your-mouth tender and bursting with flavor.
Savoring Argentine cuisine and world-class hospitality at Piegari Carne in Buenos Aires.
The outstanding prime filet at Piegari Carne—a must-stop pre-cruise culinary treat.
Day 2 in the "Paris of South America" was all about slowing down and soaking in the culture. With a gentle rain drizzling outside, I checked into the elegant hotel courtesy of HX Expeditions and embraced a perfectly cozy afternoon. I wandered over to Piegari Italian for a lingering lunch, then wrapped up the evening with warm tea and a buttery scone—pure comfort before polar conditions.
Relaxing with warm tea and buttery scones in Buenos Aires before our polar expedition.
Exploring the grand architecture, parks, and vibrant culture of Buenos Aires.
That evening, I met up with the wonderful HX hospitality team at the hospitality desk, completed pre-expedition check-in, and received our charter flight boarding passes and expedition itinerary packets. The anticipation in the room was electric—Antarctica was getting closer!
Day 3: The End of the World — Charter Flight to Ushuaia & Boarding MS Fridtjof Nansen
Today our adventure took us to the "End of the World"! We boarded our private HX Expeditions charter flight south across Patagonia to Ushuaia, Argentina—the southernmost city on planet Earth and the official gateway to Antarctica.
Arriving in Ushuaia, the southernmost city on Earth, ready to embark on MS Fridtjof Nansen.
The contrast as you land between the jagged Martial Glacier peaks and the dark waters of the Beagle Channel is breathtaking. After a scenic transfer through town, we caught our first glimpse of our majestic home for the next two weeks: the MS Fridtjof Nansen, gleaming pristine against the Patagonian docks.
MS Fridtjof Nansen docked at Ushuaia harbor, ready to depart across the Beagle Channel.
Boarding the ship felt like entering a private boutique Scandinavian resort. The expedition team welcomed us warmly, fitted us with our complimentary custom red HX polar parkas, and assigned our lockers in the Expedition Mudroom with our heavy insulated Muck boots. As lines were cast off and we sailed out into the Beagle Channel, a toast to the 7th continent rang out across the observation lounge.
Days 4 & 5: Conquering the Drake Passage — "Drake Lake", Whales, Seabirds & The "Drake Shake"!
Crossing the notorious 500-mile Drake Passage is a time-honored rite of passage for polar explorers. You never quite know if you will encounter the serene "Drake Lake" or the roaring "Drake Shake"—and on our journey, we got to experience both!
Scanning the horizon for seabirds and whales from the observation deck during our Drake Passage transit.
Our crossing started out with remarkably calm, glassy waters. The wildlife put on an absolute masterclass: soaring behind the ship were Grey-headed and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses with 10-foot wingspans, Southern Giant Petrels, Southern Fulmars, and the striking checkerboard-patterned Cape Petrel gliding effortlessly over the swells.
Magnificent Wandering Albatross with a 10-foot wingspan banking over the Southern Ocean.
Humpback and Fin whales surfacing alongside the vessel during our passage.
Then, during dinner at restaurant Aune, Katie and I looked out our window just in time to see a raft of wild penguins torpedoing through the water at lightning speed right beside the ship! Seeing penguins swimming in the open ocean like tiny porpoises is pure magic that brings tears to your eyes.
Penguins torpedoing through the Southern Ocean alongside our ship—an unforgettable dinner surprise!
To prepare for our first landing, we completed our mandatory IAATO biosecurity protocols. We vacuumed every pocket, Velcro strap, and seam of our backpacks, pants, and outerwear to ensure zero foreign seeds or organic matter could ever reach Antarctica's fragile ecosystem.
Rigorous gear vacuuming and biosecurity checks protect Antarctica's pristine wilderness.
Treating myself to an incredible Antarctica Hot Stone Massage in the onboard wellness spa.
Between environmental briefings, I treated myself to an Antarctica Hot Stone Massage in the wellness spa. There is nothing quite like relaxing under warm river stones while gazing out a window at icebergs drifting by! That evening, the Captain informed us over the intercom that we were hitting about 10 hours of "motion in the ocean." The Drake showed its dramatic teeth, rocking us into sleep like a giant polar cradle—adventure at its finest!
Day 6: Stepping Foot on Continent #7 — Brown Station & Paradise Harbour
Waking up on Day 6 was an emotional milestone I will never forget. I walked out onto my stateroom balcony into absolute, serene silence. We had arrived. Ahead of us lay towering snow-covered peaks and glaciers calving into the glassy, turquoise waters of Paradise Harbour.
Mirror-flat waters reflecting glacial walls and icebergs during our Zodiac cruise in Paradise Harbour.
Suiting up into our warm layers and muck boots, we loaded into the Zodiacs for our historic continental landfall at Almirante Brown Station. Stepping my boots onto the rocky Antarctic shore meant I had officially set foot on my 7th and final continent!
The iconic red buildings of Brown Station set against sheer Antarctic ice cliffs.
Curious Gentoo penguins nesting along the rocky slopes at Brown Station.
Curious Gentoo penguins waddled right past our boots on their well-trodden "penguin highways," seemingly unfazed by human presence. We hiked up the snow ridge behind the station for an awe-inspiring, 360-degree panorama of the Gerlache Strait. It was overwhelmingly humbling.
Day 7: Charlotte Bay, Enterprise Island & Foyn Harbour — Whaling History & Pack Ice
Today we explored the historic waterways of Charlotte Bay, Enterprise Island, and Foyn Harbour. This region was once a major anchorage for factory whaling vessels in the early 20th century, and today nature has peacefully reclaimed it.
The haunting, historic shipwreck of the SS Guvernøren resting in Foyn Harbour.
Weaving our Zodiac through iridescent pack ice and brash ice near Enterprise Island.
In Foyn Harbour, we cruised right up to the ghostly, rusted wreckage of the SS Guvernøren, a whaling ship that caught fire and was run aground in 1915 so all crew could be safely rescued. Antarctic terns and kelp gulls now nest peacefully in its iron ribs, while Crabeater seals sleep peacefully on nearby ice floes.
Day 8: Navigating the Majestic Lemaire Channel & Giant Blue Icebergs at Stony Point
At 6:30 AM, our expedition leader announced that we were approaching the famed Lemaire Channel, affectionately known among polar travelers as "Kodak Gap." Standing out on the bow in the crisp polar air with a steaming coffee in hand, watching our captain maneuver our 530-foot hybrid ship through a narrow passage framed by 3,000-foot sheer vertical granite cliffs, was hypnotic.
Transiting the legendary Lemaire Channel—towering vertical peaks rising 3,000 feet straight out of the sea.
Later in the afternoon, we landed at Stony Point, where nature put on a sculptural exhibition of colossal neon-blue icebergs. Glacial ice that has been compacted under immense pressure for tens of thousands of years absorbs red light, radiating an astonishing, electric cerulean glow from within.
A monumental natural ice arch sculpted by wind and summer melt into electric blue hues.
Thousands of Gentoo penguins tending to pebble nests on the rocky bluffs at Stony Point.
Day 9: The Clifftop Chinstrap Rookeries of Orne Island
Today's highlight was a landing on Orne Island, located at the mouth of the Errera Channel. Orne Island is famous for its thriving colony of Chinstrap penguins, named for the distinctive narrow black band under their chins that makes them look like they are wearing tiny black helmets.
Chinstrap penguins guarding their pebble nests along the breezy ridges of Orne Island.
Hiking the snow ridge to witness the vast expanses of the Gerlache Strait below.
Because Chinstraps prefer high, rocky ridges blown free of snow, visiting them requires a vigorous uphill snow hike using trekking poles. The reward at the summit was extraordinary: hundreds of calling penguins stealing pebbles from each other's nests, with the MS Fridtjof Nansen floating gracefully like a toy ship far below in the bay.
Day 10: Damoy Point — Historic Transit Huts, Penguin Highways & Snowshoeing
Our final full day in Antarctica brought us to Damoy Point on Wiencke Island. This site holds tremendous historical significance: it served as an ice runway and transit hut for the British Antarctic Survey from 1975 to 1993, allowing researchers to wait out fierce polar storms before flying south.
The historic Damoy Point transit hut, preserved as a living museum of polar exploration.
Snowshoeing across untouched powder snowfields beneath the dramatic peaks of Wiencke Island.
Step inside the hut and you step back in time: canned rations from the 1980s, vintage bunk beds, scientific equipment, and journals still sit intact. Outside, we strapped on modern snowshoes provided by HX and trekked across the pristine snow plateau. Surrounded by pristine wilderness, I paused, took a deep breath of the cleanest air on Earth, and let the sheer magic of Antarctica wash over me.
Days 11–14: Citizen Science, The Expedition Team & The Journey Home
As we turned northward and began our return transit across the Drake Passage, the onboard Science Center buzzed with excitement. One of the greatest hallmarks of traveling with HX is their immersive Citizen Science Program. Guests actively participate in real-world research—from tracking whale fluke IDs for Happywhale to monitoring phytoplankton levels under high-powered microscopes.
The world-class HX Expedition Team who guided, educated, and inspired us every day.
A breathtaking golden sunset over the Drake Passage as we reflected on an unforgettable expedition.
Our journey concluded with our charter flight from Ushuaia back to Buenos Aires, and onward home to the United States. Antarctica is not a place you leave behind; it is an untamed sanctuary that stays etched into your soul for the rest of your life.
Why Book Your Antarctica Expedition with Johnnie Herring & Vincent Vacations
An expedition to Antarctica is a significant investment of time, emotion, and resources. You should never leave your once-in-a-lifetime dream trip to an algorithm or an impersonal booking portal. Having sailed the Drake Passage, explored the landing sites, and tested every amenity on board, I guide my clients with genuine firsthand expertise.
Firsthand Polar Expertise
I know which side of the ship to book, how to prepare for the Drake Passage, exact cold-weather layering gear to pack, and what to expect during Zodiac landings.
Signature Travel Network Perks
Through Vincent Vacations' elite consortia partnerships, my clients receive exclusive onboard shipboard credits, VIP perks, and preferential booking terms.
Full Concierge Coordination
From complex international flights and Buenos Aires boutique hotel stays to polar travel insurance and private transfers, every single detail is seamlessly handled.
Ready to Check Antarctica Off Your Bucket List?
Let Johnnie Herring design your dream expedition cruise with HX Hurtigruten Expeditions. Contact us today for complimentary concierge planning, firsthand advice, and exclusive Signature perks.
