Overview
Introduction
Thanks in large part to Daniel Boone's explorations, pioneers were able to cross the Cumberland Gap as they traveled the Wilderness Road to the West. Today, Cumberland Gap is one of the largest national historical parks in the country, with territory in Virginia, Kentucky and Tennessee. The headquarters is in Middlesboro, Kentucky.
The park, which is in the far southwest corner of Virginia, offers interpretive exhibits, hiking, camping, picnicking and backcountry outings (permits required). Cumberland Gap is highly recommended for its historical importance and its scenic beauty.
If you have time, hike along the Ridge Trail on Brush Mountain to the Hensley Settlement. This community of farmsteads prospered in near isolation for almost 50 years. You can also take a shuttle to Hensley Settlement, but the hike is beautiful if you're up for it.
If you're looking for a place to stop on your way to the Cumberland Gap, consider Abingdon, home of the famous Barter Theatre. It was founded during the Depression by a group of actors who staged performances in exchange for food. Such famous actors and writers as Gregory Peck, Hume Cronyn and Tennessee Williams filled their bellies courtesy of the Barter.
The Virginia Creeper Trail is a 34-mi/55-km hiking, biking and equestrian trail that follows an old railroad bed. You can take it southeast to the small village of Damascus, near the Tennessee border. The Appalachian Trail that runs from Georgia to Maine also passes through this area.
West of Abingdon on Highway 58 (the best route to Cumberland Gap from Interstate 81) is Big Stone Gap, where you can see the outdoor historical drama The Trail of the Lonesome Pine.
Overview
Introduction
When they nicknamed West Virginia the Mountain State, they weren't kidding. Small communities there literally have been shaped by the steep terrain—squeezed so tightly between two mountainsides that there's only room for one road and a single line of houses.
Vacations in West Virginia also tend to be shaped by the mountains and valleys: Those scenic Appalachian roads provide plenty of photo opportunities; the state's plunging rivers make it one of the premier destinations for white-water rafting in the U.S.; and the mountainous parks and forests are great places for skiing, rock climbing, fishing and hiking.
There are also luxurious mineral-water spas (another product of the state's rugged geology) and historic sites that yield a better understanding of how these mountains have shaped the course of U.S. history, from westward expansion to the Civil War to the turbulent coal-mining era of the early 1900s.
Geography
As one might expect, the Mountain State is far from level, but it isn't all mountains: The Appalachians run along the eastern side of the state where there are numerous gorges, valleys and fast-running rivers. But in the north and west, where the uplands give way to the Ohio River Valley, the state is more hilly than mountainous.
The state is divided into nine travel regions: the New River Greenbrier Valley, the Potomac Highlands, the Eastern Panhandle, Mountaineer Country, the Northern Panhandle, the Mid-Ohio Valley, the Metro Valley, the Mountain Lakes and the Hatfield-McCoy Mountains.
History
The Native Americans who first came to these mountains were largely hunters and gatherers, part of the Adena culture that built temple mounds in the Ohio River Valley as early as 1000 BC. The groups that Europeans encountered some 2,500 years later were only remotely related to the earlier residents. The later groups (Shawnee, Cherokee, Delaware, Conoy and others) were primarily farmers, occupying major river valleys and forested uplands.
Europeans did not really settle in West Virginia until the 1700s. George Washington was among its early colonial visitors, and Daniel Boone later spent quite a while in the region (before heading on to less-crowded lands to the west). Eventually, settlers from the English colonies began to pour in and establish communities—but not without some resistance from the French and Native American peoples.
As its name suggests, the state was originally a part of Virginia, but at the beginning of the Civil War, the state split into two regions: The eastern portion of the state seceded from the Union, but the western portion remained a part of the U.S., taking the name Kanawha. It changed its name to West Virginia before officially becoming a state in 1863.
Although the state's economy was originally agrarian, the discovery of vast coalfields changed its economy and its way of life. It's one of the country's largest producers of coal, and its livelihood has risen and fallen with that industry's fortunes. Some of the most bitter and violent labor struggles in the U.S. transpired on the state's soil as miners attempted to unionize in the early 1900s. West Virginian Mary Harris "Mother" Jones was a leader in protesting horrendous mine conditions, and the movie Matewan, set and filmed in West Virginia, reflects the early struggles to develop a labor union.
Coal is still the state's most important industry—along with livestock, chemical manufacturing and glass production—but tourism also plays a major role the state's economy
Snapshot
West Virginia's main attractions include the mountains, rivers and forests, where white-water rafting, trout fishing, skiing, camping, hiking and hunting are predominant options for the traveler.
Travelers who love the outdoors and non-touristy areas will have a great time in West Virginia. Not all West Virginia destinations are rugged or outdoorsy, but nearly all have a relaxed and laid-back atmosphere. Distances between attractions often traverse long and winding roads, which some drivers find straining; however, motorcyclists enjoy the roads immensely.
Potpourri
Organ Cave near Ronceverte is the largest of the state's many caverns, and is the third largest in the U.S.
West Virginia has a mean altitude of 1,500 feet, giving it the highest average altitude of any state east of the Mississippi.
In 1918, inventor Thomas Edison, industrial moguls Henry Ford and Harvey Firestone, and naturalist John Burroughs got together and took a trip through the Potomac Highlands, camping at what is now the historic Cheat Mountain Club.
Outdoor advertising had its origin in Wheeling around 1908 when the Block Brothers Tobacco Company painted bridges and barns with the slogan: "Treat Yourself to the Best, Chew Mail Pouch."
The birthplace and home of Nobel Prize-winning author Pearl S. Buck (The Good Earth) is in Hillsboro. The house is open to visitors and filled with original furniture and memorabilia.
The International Mother's Day Shrine in downtown Grafton marks the spot where mothers were honored in 1908. This happened at the instigation of a local woman, Anna Jarvis, on the death of her mother, who had nursed Civil War wounded on both sides and worked to settle the conflict. The Anna Jarvis Birthplace Museum in the family home contains original, century-old household items, clothing and Civil War relics from the period of occupation by Union soldiers. Father's Day originated in Fairmont the same year, when grieving children chose to honor 250 local fathers who were killed nearby during the worst mine disaster in American history. Special services are still held in the Central United Methodist Church.
Because West Virginia coal burns so cleanly, it was selected to fuel ships during World War I. The lack of smoke made the boats less detectable to the enemy.
When the New River Gorge Bridge (the world's second-longest single span bridge) opened in 1977, the time to cross the gorge was reduced from 40 minutes to 1 minute. On "Bridge Day" (October 18), BASE jumpers and rappellers are allowed to jump off the 876-foot-high structure.
The Hatfields of the Hatfield-McCoy feud were from southwestern West Virginia. The McCoys lived across the river in Kentucky. There's not much remaining from the conflict, but some artifacts—and the Hatfield family cemetery—are in the community of Sarah Ann, south of Logan.
West Virginia's nationally recognized rail system includes more than 3,000 mi/4,828 km of trails that can be used by hikers, bikers and equestrians. Some are open to motorized vehicles such as trail bikes and all-terrain-vehicles.
Steamboat inventor James Rumsey has been neglected by history but not by Shepherdstown, where he successfully demonstrated a steamboat on the Potomac in 1787—two decades before Robert Fulton. In 1987, the Rumseian Society built a replica of Rumsey's boat, which is on display at the Shepherdstown Museum.
The giant dish-shaped telescopes visible from Highway 92 near Green Bank are part of the National Radio Astronomy Observatory (home to the world's largest radio telescope), which offers fascinating tours and programs. Your cell phone won't work within miles of the place, because it is a designated "quiet zone" for the NRAO, which "listens" to outer space.
West Virginia is also a good place for star-gazing with the naked eye. Several locations rate well on the Bortle scale (which measures the levels of light pollution), including Spruce Knob and Calhoun County Park near Grantsville. In the West Virginia hills you can often see the Milky Way with the naked eye.
