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Iceland's stark, pristine scenery has been shaped by fire and ice: More than 200 volcanoes and numerous glaciers form the country's landscape. It's a frozen land that's always letting off steam. Its U-shaped valleys, jagged lava fields, monstrous ice caps, hot springs and geysers have carved a rugged, bizarre landscape you won't see anywhere else on Earth. But you don't need the fortitude of a Viking to enjoy Iceland. In fact, you can experience many of its extremes in relative comfort.

Icelanders, like many islanders, are self-confident and reserved, but once you break the ice, so to speak, they are among the friendliest in the world. Of course, they, too, have their extremes. Although Sunday-Thursday nights in Reykjavik, the capital city, are usually quite sedate, the wee hours during the weekend (particularly Friday nights) can get downright raucous as stylishly dressed young people observe a rowdy party-on-the-streets ritual known as the runtur, or circuit.

Roughly 1 million tourists visit Iceland each year, far exceeding the country's total population of about 332,000. Visitors flock to this country to revel in Reykjavik's famed nightlife, but also to travel over lunar landscapes; wade in hot springs; trek across glaciers; comb miles and miles of secluded beaches; swim in geothermal pools; bathe in the mysterious Blue Lagoon; contemplate stunning waterfalls and geysers; gaze at the midnight sun; and experience winter days where the air's so fresh it feels as if it might snap.

Iceland's raw nature is sublime. It is like no place else on Earth.

Geography

Iceland is a volcanic island straddling the active Mid-Atlantic Ridge. The Eurasian and North American tectonic plates divide the country, and are slowly pulling apart, accounting for fissures, craggy mountains, towering glaciers, deep fjords and lava-scarred tundra. Roughly the size of the state of Virginia, Iceland is located in the far north, but the only part of the country touching the Arctic Circle is the small island of Grimsey.

The country is generally divided into seven geological, physical and scenic regions, and it's possible to see most of them by driving the Ring Road (Highway 1), which circumnavigates Iceland. A bus makes the route daily year-round, unless weather forces road closures in the north.

Southwest—The capital city is located on the Reykjanes Peninsula which dominates the region, and is home to Iceland's international airport, the city of Keflavik and the Blue Lagoon, Iceland's most popular tourist attraction. The Reykjanes Peninsula is a geothermal hot spot, and much of the region's power is derived from this geothermal activity.

West—The Snaefellsnes Peninsula is home to fishing villages and farms, but the main attraction is Snaefellsjokull glacier, which on a clear day can be seen from as far away as Reykjavik. In his seminal novel Journey to the Center of the Earth, Jules Verne described the glacier as the entry point to the Earth's core. The region is sometimes referred to as Saga Land, because many of Iceland's sagas (such as Egil's Saga) were written in West Iceland.

West Fjords—The mountainous area is the westernmost part of Europe, close enough to Greenland (175 mi/280 km) that polar bears sometimes (albeit rarely) drift there on ice sheets. The capital of the West Fjords is Isafjordur, the perfect jumping-off point during the summer to explore the lush valleys, towering mountains and rugged sea cliffs, as well as the many fishing villages dotting the coast. The area is home to myriad seabirds, including the North Atlantic puffin.

North—Iceland's second-largest city is Akureyri, but the area is more about striking nature. North Iceland is home to Dettifoss, one of Europe's most powerful waterfalls. Whale-watchers flock to Husavik to track humpback whales, and during summer visitors can take to the slopes for glacier skiing under the midnight sun, or enter the Arctic Open, a golf tournament that tees off at midnight.

East Fjords—East Iceland begins about 300 mi/480 km northeast of Reykjavik. The region is known for Europe's largest ice cap, Vatnajokull, about an hour's drive from the fishing village Hofn. The Ring Road wends through and around the fishing villages dotting the region's narrow fjords, Reydarfjordur being the east's longest and widest fjord. The East Fjords is home to herds of free-roaming reindeer.

South—South Iceland is known for the Golden Circle, named after the popular tour that takes visitors to Thingvellir National Park (home to the world's first parliament), the powerful Gullfoss waterfall and Geysir, a hot spot for geysers. (The word geyser is derived from the Icelandic word geysir.) South Iceland is replete with lush farmlands and lakes, including Thingvallavatn, Iceland's largest lake. The active volcano Hekla is also in the south. The Westmann Islands, visible off the southern coast, are easily accessible by ferry or airplane.

The Interior—Simply called the Highlands, Iceland's interior is uninhabitable, a vast area of desolate beauty, characterized by glaciers, mountains, volcanic wastelands and variable weather. The Highlands are primarily accessible only during summer, mainly via tours in four-wheel-drive vehicles or on horseback. (Winter travel should not be attempted without a guide.) Highlights include Thorsmork, Sprengisandur and Landmannalaugar. Organized tours last from one to 10 days. You should never travel alone in Iceland's interior; always have a companion, if not a guide.

History

Popular folklore states that Iceland was named after ice to trick would-be settlers into venturing to Greenland. This is actually true. To elude the King of Norway, the Vikings who settled the windswept island (traditionally dated AD 874) wanted to dissuade other Vikings from going.

The records of Iceland's first inhabitants were written in Landnamabok (Book of Settlements), in the 12th century, detailing the island's first settler, Ingolfur Arnarson. The story goes that when this Viking chieftain from Norway spotted land, he tossed his boat's seat posts into the sea, and made his home where they washed ashore: Reykjavik. He started a farm in Reykjavik (which means "smoky bay"), named after the steam rising from the region's hot springs.

Being an isolated island, the language hasn't changed much since the time of settlement, and Icelanders can still read the epic 13th-century sagas written in Old Norse.

The country enjoyed an early golden era as an independent republic from 930 to about 1262 (its parliament, the Althing, is considered the oldest in the world). Following a time of bloody anarchy, it entered a long, dark period—ruled first by Norway and then by Denmark—until its second independence, the formal establishment of the republic on 17 June 1944.

It was World War II, and the resulting Marshall Plan, that transformed Iceland from a farming and fishing nation where many rural inhabitants still lived in turf houses into a modern country. British troops first moved into Iceland during the war, followed by U.S. troops. The British withdrew around 1941, but U.S. forces maintained a NATO base outside Keflavik until 2006. These U.S. forces built the nation's international airport in Keflavik, and helped Icelanders complete the nation's main highway, the Ring Road, which circumnavigates the country.

One of Iceland's only major international disputes occurred when the country decided to redraw its territorial waters, which only extended 4 mi/6 km offshore prior to 1952. During the next several years, Iceland began expanding its waters to protect its fishing grounds from foreign trawlers. By 1975, the country had extended its waters to 200 mi/322 km.

Each time Iceland increased the size of its waters, the country met huge opposition from the British. Several times, the British sent large ships into Iceland's waters in protest, followed by a ban of Iceland fish imports in the U.K. These skirmishes, known as the "Cod Wars," established Iceland's reputation as a staunch nation. The British eventually backed down and signed an agreement with Iceland to honor the 200-mi/322-km limit. Almost every maritime nation has now adopted the 200-mi/322-km zone.

Iceland also received global criticism for its resumption of whaling, especially because it prides itself on being environmentally aware. The government ensures that the catch is limited to a sustainable number, and that there is a market for it.

Snapshot

Among Iceland's main attractions are hiking, fishing, river rafting, geysers, horse trekking, whale-watching, camping, skiing, snowmobiling, Viking ruins, puffin-watching, volcanoes, lava fields, the Midnight Sun, northern lights, hot springs, museums, glaciers and waterfalls.

Iceland appeals to travelers who enjoy outdoor activities, rugged scenery, brisk weather and a relaxing, invigorating vacation (anyone who enjoys Alaska would be a prime candidate). The capital, Reykjavik, offers an array of overnight accommodations, from luxury hotels to youth hostels. There is an abundance of cafes and bistros in addition to fine-dining establishments. Reykjavik's nightlife is an all-night adventure, with some pubs and clubs staying open until the wee hours of the night. But outside the capital, the choices are rather limited. Budget travel was a problem in Iceland, but since the global economic crisis, Iceland's currency has decreased in value, and prices are now reasonable for youth hostels and guesthouses.

Potpourri

Iceland is virtually treeless. The island's growing season is short and there is little topsoil, so the few trees that exist are small and grow very slowly.

The land's history is beset by volcanic eruptions, most notably one that erupted continuously for about 10 months in 1783, belching poisonous gases that destroyed pastures and crops. Almost 75% of the country's livestock and 20% of the people died from the resulting famine. In 2010, an ash cloud disrupted air traffic across Europe for several weeks.

Icelanders all seem to be related—or at least know each other. Nearly everyone living in the country can trace his or her descent back to the settlers listed in a 14th-century book called Lannamabok (Book of Settlers).

Icelanders' names are based on the patronymic system. A boy takes his father's first name for his last name, and then adds the suffix son to it. Girls do the same but add dottir instead. For example, a man named Johann whose father's name is Jon, is called Johann Jonsson. His son, named Halldor, is named Halldor Johannsson. Halldor's sister Vigdis is called Vigdis Johannsdottir. Icelanders are listed by their first names in the phone book.

Swimming is a way of life in Iceland. It's a compulsory part of the school curriculum. It's said that to find the pulse of the nation, visit one of the many geothermal pools, hot pots and saunas. Because these pools use less chlorine than U.S. pools, visitors must shower naked, and, humorously, there are instructions in the locker rooms as to where to soap up.

The interior of Iceland is so barren and moonlike that the Apollo astronauts did some of their training there. The area is classified as Europe's only desert.

Icelandic horses are known for their unique gait, the tolt (similar to that of a Tennessee Walker). Icelanders claim the tolt makes the ponies very comfortable to ride for hours at a time. If an Icelandic horse is taken abroad to a competition, it can never return to Iceland, in order to protect the local herds from disease.

Iceland is one of the most educated nations in the world, boasting 99.9% literacy. It also has one of the longest life expectancies and cleanest environments in Europe.

Thanks to Iceland's geothermal energy, a majority of the country's houses are heated with hot water pumped straight up from the ground.

Iceland opened the first hydrogen fuel station in 2003, and that same year it began running hydrogen-powered buses in Reykjavik. The country is striving to transfer its entire fishing fleet to hydrogen fuel cells to reduce Iceland's dependency on fossil fuel.